We seldom wail or whack anything when a customer's around, we prefer the smart authoritative rap. The authoritative is important. You must think of that crank pin (you'll never hear us call it a cotter either, those resemble bobby pins and are secured by inserting and spreading, at least through my old schools of training, including '71 Schwinn Factory School and manual.
For ease of communication, I accept cotter (or carter and cottapeen out this way)
Make sure that the dolly, sink, backer-upper, or what ever you call theweight used to steady the crank arm on the head side (or thread side when installing) is either very heavy or is backed by something heavy. We have a long pipe with a capped end and a 10mm hole in the cap that works.
If these and the aforementioned methods don't work, swing harder, and if still frozen, swing harder. Remember to think 'out' not 'stuck'. That's the law of belief or 'follow through' that works in bowling, baseball, hill climbing, sprints, and getting parts disassembled. Larry 'King of Swing' Black Mt Airy, Md
In a message dated 1/11/2004 1:57:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, steve@sburl.com writes:
1. Carefully, knock the threaded portion of the cotter back and forth with a punch until it breaks off. If it is already too mangled and flattened to do this, drill just this portion out, as Steven suggested. Be careful not to mark the chrome on the crank arm.
2. Support the back side of the crank with a notched block of oak or other suitable hardwood. The notches go on either side of the backside of the cotter.
3. Whack the bejeeses out of the cotter with a tapered punch with business end the same size as the threaded portion of the cotter.