I followed Chuck Schmidt's link:
From:
Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and Interesting
Information
http://draco.acs.uci.edu/
looked over a few things, and came across this:
Subject: 8h.1 Seat adjustments From: Roger Marquis <marquis@roble.com>
[More up to date copies of Roger's articles can be found at
http://www.roble.net/
The following method of setting saddle height is not the only method around for setting your saddle height but it is the most popular among experienced coaches and riders in the US and Europe.
1) First adjust the saddle angle. It should be level or very close to level, with no more than 2mm slope up or down at the nose.
2) Put on the shoes you normally ride in. Don't forget to lightly grease the seat post and binder bolt. Have a binder bolt wrench ready (usually a 5mm Allen).
3) Mount the bike and sit comfortably, leaning against a wall. Apply a brake with one hand (or mount the bike on a turbo trainer).
4) Placing your HEELS on the pedals pedal backwards at 30+ rpm without rocking your pelvis (very important).
5) Adjust seat height so the gap between pedal and heel at bottom dead center is:
5A) ZERO TO ONE HALF CM. for recreational riders (-50 mi/wk.),
5B) ONE HALF TO ONE CM. for experienced riders (50+ mi./wk.),
5C) ONE TO ONE AND ONE HALF CM. for endurance cyclists (250+ mi./wk.).
NOTE: Modify these recommendations if your soles are considerably thicker at the cleat than at the heel. It can be difficult to make an accurate measurement without a mirror or friend to do a visual check of your heel and pedal at BDC. (This is especially true for Time and Look style cleats).
6) Ride. It may take a couple of rides to get used to the feel and possibly stretch the hamstrings and Achilles slightly.
Roger Marquis (marquis@roble.com)
This sounds too high to me. What do you think?
Marcus Helman
Perhaps a bit too much caffeine
Huntington Woods, MI