That may be true of Raleighs from the late '70s onward, but before that they used brass rivets that were hollow. Those are real buggers to deal with on repaints. Glue is good. You've got to be careful of rivets or other fasteners protruding into the headtube as there is not much clearance before you hit the steerer.
Steve Barner, Bolton, Vermont
> Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 19:25:06 -0500
> From: Louis Schulman <louiss@gate.net>
> To: EdVintage63@aol.com
> Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Re: Raleigh headbadge
>
> Raleigh used "self-tapping rivets". They are really not rivets at all,
> but screws with a helical thread and no slot, that creates threads when
> tapped in.
>
> These are for sale all the time on eBay for "Choppers" from England.
> They are inexpensive. I would still use some sort of glue when putting
> them in, because there is very little metal in the head tube to hold
> them, and they can come loose.
>
> Louis Schulman
> Tampa, Florida
>
>
> EdVintage63@aol.com wrote:
> > Following up earlier Raleigh headbadge advice:
> >
> >
> >>On
> >>reinstallation: if I'm feeling especially anal-retentive, I tap the
> >>holes with a miniature tap and use tiny machine screws...then it's
> >>removeable for the "next guy".
> >>
> >
> > I've got a similar issue with my '71 International. Shining a flashlight
down
> > the headtube creates a little jack-o-lantern effect, as all the rivets
are
> > missing. This was charming at Halloween, but now that it's nearly
Thanksgiving,
> > I'd appreciate a fix. I fear my heron is clinging to the headtube solely
as a
> > consequence of Raleigh mojo. Or maybe Imron. I don't currently have a
> > miniature tap nor do I anticipate my in-laws giving me one for
Christmas. Clever
> > alternatives? Don? Steve? Bueller? Anyone?
> >
> > Ed Granger
> > Lancaster, PA