I was looking at too many wheels spinning and got my subjects mixed up. Sorry. Striping was; not HiLo as labeled, last nites tropic. We'll do Regina cogs tonight, Chuck will have to wait for his HiLo origins.
If you have a few tools, the cogs may be tight but you should be able to get them all off with proper set up and technique.
Unless you are only changing the outer three or four cogs on a five or six speed cluster the freewheel has to be removed. To do this you will need two chainwhips. Remove the cluster from the hub to take all the cogs off the body.
On a typical Regina or old style Atom, interchangable by the way, the two outside thread positions are RH thread. The inside position is LH thread. To take all the cogs off the body you will need the following tools; A cluster cog holding tool. This one has the upright pegs that hold the low gear cog and one side of the tool slides to adjust to the cog size. A VAR 368. This is the two piece half moon clip looking male female peg and hole combo that holds the middle position threaded section tight when put in the vise. It has threads/ grooves to match the body thread, so you can tighten down on the body until it holds the body from sliding around and allows you to remove the inside two(lo) gear cogs. Last but not least a good strong chain whip that won't bend under pressure.
Place the peg tool in the vise and put the large cog in position with the sliding pegs and titen up accordingly. I usually put a spacer(s) under the cluster to keep it from cocking over a little sideways to solidify chainwhip leverage and prevent possible lo gear cupping. It keeps your work effort more stable and solid. Place your chainwhip on the small cog first,turn off counterclockwise to remove and follow on with each succeeding position until cogs are removed. Don't lunge the tool, use steady stronger pressure to remove cogs. If the cogs are too damn tight, don't be afraid to use an extender for more leverage. Make it easy on youself. The extender should fit snug on your chainwhip handle so it doesn't shift abruptly and cause you to slip. Wear gloves as these tools have smaller edges and could damage your palm finger tendons if you sqeeze too hard and pinch your nerves/tendons/ ligaments. That's where the so-called trigger finger comes from!
Now remove body from cogtool. Place second position thread section into the half moon clip tool, #368 or reasonable facsimile and telescope together and tighten the tool in the vise where it will hold the body tite so you can now remove the lo and next to lo cogs which should now be facing up towards you. Remember these are LH thread and you will have to turn the chainwhip clockwise to remove the cogs. If the body slips keep tightening on the vise a little at a time and trying until pressure holds the body and the cog comes loose. You may want to space the body again for stability while torqueing. If the lo gears bow, ce la vie. If they refuse to budge, grind the sob's off gently and throw them against the wall when no one is looking.
You should now have a cogless body to fondle.With that and frame tubes and lugs to stroke, what kind of a group is this? If it doesn't get worse, I'm going home.
Lube the body threads before reassembling. Remember to tighten the inside cog down tightly against the shoulder so that the next cog doesn't tighten up against the first cog and they are not tightly seated when you install the cluster on the bike. The cluster will seat on the hub but the shoulder abutting cog may then loosen from its neighbor cog and then tighten to the shoulder leaving you with a loose cog that could unscrew as you ride and coast. Regina also made a Scalare cluster that was for corn cob ratios. Haven't seen one in years, some of the cog thread support was so thin, guy would regularly crack the cogs. The thread sizing and position were a little different than the standard corsas and oros.
Hope this is easy to decipher, it's tough to do this and hope it's clear. It's a lot easier when I did hands on classes. Any q's please ask, I'll help where I can. Chuck, I'll try to get to the HI-lo tomorrow. For now it's back to my Krimi. That's a German nickname for detective/ mystery movies or books. Ted Ernst Palos Verdes Est. CA
<classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 3:15 PM Subject: [CR]regina FWs disassembly...
> Jerry Moos posted:
>
> Speaking of Regina FW's, anyone know a source for a 28T inside cog? The
> cogset I salvaged from the trashed body last weekend turns out to be well
> spaced for my use except that the inside 31T needs to be changed to a 28T,
> about the most an NR RD can be made to handle.
>
> ++++++++++++++++
>
> Two observations, Jerry -
>
> 1) Getting the inside cog off, particularly a large one, can be quite
> difficult - even when you remember that it has LH threading. Lot more
> lever arm there for tightening it up while riding than on the other end
> (13 or 14), and time takes its toll, too. I had one go wavy not too long
> ago.
>
> 2) We have used 13-31 quite successfully with a NR and a half-step
> chainring set-up. Indeed, my Beloved Spouse's bike still has that, with a
> 40/45 front split. She has not found it a problem to be limited to a 93
> top gear.
>
> your mileage may vary
>
> harvey sachs