Raleigh recomends using their oil.New Departure says to use SAE-20 engine oil.The "Big Book of Hubs" says don't use "all purpose"(3-in-one)(WD40) and not to over oil and let the oil run down on the tyres/raleigh also says not to get oil on tyres.Raleigh says you can clean freewheels with paraffin.Paraffin is candle wax to me--any idea what Paraffin means in the Queen's English?
And BTW Raleigh/T.I. had a lot of chemists and scientists on the pay-roll. They may not have refined the oil,but they very well tested oil for their needs.
I use Singer sewing machine oil--singers were also a product of england so I'm close at least
sam lingo pleasanton tx
>From: "kohl57@starpower.net" <kohl57@starpower.net>
>Reply-To: kohl57@starpower.net
>To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
>Subject: RE: [CR] Lubrication
>Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 11:03:18 -0400
>
>I don't know if Campagnolo grease is any different from others, but being
>"period correct" with lubrication is important on practical rather than
>asesthetic or "curatorial" reasons. Most pre 1960s bicycles, especially
>British ones, were designed and built to be lubricated "little but often".
>There's nothing a British bike doesn't like, beyond an open road, than oil
>and the manuals all suggested lubricating every fortnight. It really is
>essential to, as they charmingly suggested, to "ensure sweet running".
>Pre-war, it was a common beginning of season ritual to repack hubs and
>bottom brackets. I suspect more modern synthetic grease negates the need
>for this. And Cyclo-Benelux derailleurs absolutely demand frequent oiling
>and cleaning.
>
>The other essential is gear oil for Sturmey-Archer hubs. This seems to be a
>bone of contention among some who believe you can inject any old motor oil
>into the hub and be done with it. Sturmey made, of course, their own cycle
>oil which was specially made for hub gears being non-gumming and highly
>refined. That ended with Sun Race took over. But you can still get the same
>oil under the Raleigh name and also Halfords in the UK. It's essential to
>use this and not motor oil; a S/A gear is not a motor, it's a gear and so
>many gear problems arise from using too thick or gumming an oil. The
>closest to S/A gear is sewing machine oil. I've seen S/A gears dating from
>the 1940s opened up and absolutely clean as a pin thanks to using the right
>lubricant whereas others look like the EXXON VALDEZ at low tide. A simple
>expediant to clean out an old gear is to flood it with WD40 first and then
>use proper gear oil.
>
>Peter Kohler
>Washington DC USA
>
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