Hello,
<< The time to face the frame is before painting, not after. >> Agreed, but since it seems few frames are faced in a precise manner before painting....
<<True, paint buildup inside the headtube can make it difficult to get the cups in, but this can be removed with an exacto knife. Remove the paint from the headtube faces and you run the risk of rust later on. The paint layer on these surfaces should be even and will compress evenly beneath the headcups.>>
I have never seen rust as an issue this area on any bike I can recall. A layer of light grease on this surface when the cups are pressed in should take care of it a long time. While I agree the V4 is very sensitive it has been my experience that all headsets last noticeable longer pressed into faced surfaces after paint is removed. Paint is not necessary even and the headtube area can be an area for drips in paint or clear coat to form during finishing. Not a double blind test but I had a terrible problem with headsets; lasting just a few hundred miles until I removed the paint on the headtube of my older refinished frame. I road that headset 10k miles or more with no problems.
Also of note Radial wheels and triathlon bars contribute to headset failure as well as this finicky install procedure.
<<With the exception of the Stronglight V4, most headsets will tolerate slight misalignment anyway. I really think that the need to see shiny steel on the headtube and BB is one of those customer demand things and not founded on any science. This was the opinon expressed to me many years ago by Giuseppe Marinoni, and, after thinking about it a bit, I agree with him. >>
My 2 centimes,
Gilbert Anderson
North Road Bicycle Company
519 W. North St.
Raleigh, NC 27603
USA
Toll Free Ph: 800\u2022321\u20225511
Local Ph: 919\u2022828\u20228999
E-mail: cyclestore@aol.com