RE: [CR] WTB: Park Fork fixture - is it worthwhle?

(Example: Framebuilding:Restoration)

From: "chris ioakimedes" <chriseye@comcast.net>
To: <hersefan@comcast.net>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Subject: RE: [CR] WTB: Park Fork fixture - is it worthwhle?
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 07:59:18 -0800
In-Reply-To: <012420050456.22868.41F47FE30007D646000059542200745672020E000A9C9D0A08@comcast.net>


I have a Park fork straightening jig and have used it many times over the last 20 years. I am very happy with it. Though I do like the way one list member uses and axle through the dropout attached to a screw for pulling the blades. This technique would work with the Park fixture as well as on a lathe. But will not work if the blades are bent separately which often happens. 2/4

Chris Ioakimedes http://www.fattiretrading.com

-----Original Message----- From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] On Behalf Of hersefan@comcast.net Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2005 8:56 PM To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: Re: [CR] WTB: Park Fork fixture - is it worthwhle?

I haven't used the Park fork fixture, but I remember that my quick glance at it years ago left me thinking it was not acceptable for precision work. If I recall, it depends on comparing fork blade position and not by identifying whether or not the axle itself is sitting perpendicular and centered AT SOME POINT to the plane of the frame.

In reality, a fork can have blades that are not in line with one another along their length, yet still is "straight". If you don't believe this, imagine a fork assembled with nothing yet brazed tight. One could twist the assemply at the crown (and at the dropouts along with recentering) and still have the axle exactly where it needs to be relative to the steerer (which is ALL that matters). The fork is straight (heaven help you with installing the brake however) but it looks horible. The park tool if I recall would belch, but all is fine for tracking. Similary, a fork could be OK in Park world, yet really be a tracking dissaster.

Forks need to be extremely straight. Most alignment issues people can feel are those in the fork. I have used a Bringahli fork alignment fixture with great satisfaction over the years. I think the Park tool is just to crude for a pro alignment job. Fine perhaps for utility bikes, but not for a serious rider.

Now I may be wrong on this, and others may have found tricks to make the Park tool work well, but I thought I'd throw in my thoughts.

Mike Kone in Boulder CO


-------------- Original message --------------


> Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2005 17:13:23 -0600
> From: keith hellon
> To: Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]Fork Straightening and plating
>
> I straighten forks by clamping the steerer tube in a three jaw chuck in
> an 11" x 36" lathe. As close as possible to the crown. A drilled plate
> fits under the bed. A threaded 1/2" rod is passed through the hole and
> nutted. Center threaded rod between fork legs. Put old axle in drop outs.
> Small muffler clamp around axle. Drill 1/2" hole in clamp cross piece.
> Thread rod through and nut. Tighten bottom nut until straight, using
> lathe bed for distsnce. There will be spring-back to allow for.
> Chrome plating forks, I have had Streamwood Plating,Inc.
> rechrome forks, frames and stays for me for the last 15 or so years. They
> have done excellent work in stripping, polishing and replating. They are
> in Streamwood, Illinois, west of Chicago. 630-830-6363. If you are used
> to California prices, you will be pleasantly surprised.
> Keith Hellon, Libertyville, Illinois
>
> Now *that's* a solution to the straightening issue!
>
> This reminds me of a couple things - first, that we used to live in Streamwood,
> IL, but more importantly, that I'm looking for a Park fork straightening fixture
> so I can straighten this bent 1960s Ideor fork that I have. If anyone has one
> (preferably NOS or close to it), please e-mail me off-list....
>
> Greg Parker
> Ann Arbor, Michigan