I would think all of this would be intuitive for anyone who has been riding for many years. I know from experience how much leg extension I want at the bottom of the downstroke, where I like the center of a Brooks saddle relative to the center of the seatpost, how much I like to extend to reach the bars, and how high I like the brake levers. The first thing I do with a newly acquired bike (after airing up the tires, which may require replacing them or the tubes) is take a series of short test rides, adjusting the saddle position in the seatpost clamp, the seatpost and stem height, and the lever position on the bars between rides. I know from experience about where to start with these, then fine tune them until they feel right. I usually leave the bars untapped for a couple of weeks while I get the lever position just right. Often, it is necessary to change the stem to one with the right extension for me. If a correct stem in the right length is difficult to obtain, I might tolerate a stem extension 10 mm off from ideal, but no more. I'll also usually change to a Brooks or Ideale saddle if the bike didn't come with one. There are a few plastic saddles like Unicanitor, Ideale or Selle Turbo which I might tolerate for the sake of originally, but most plastic saddles I just won't ride. I don't personally feel the need for a lot of measurements or a "fit system". I really don't care if the setup conforms to some "scientific" definition of "correct". I want it to feel comfortable to me, and that is a matter of feel, not science.
Regards,
Jerry Moos Houston, TX
Steve Neago <questor@cinci.rr.com> wrote: e-RICHIE says, "i don't buy this unless you are able to have the same contact points duplicated on each era's bicycle;"
I agree that matching bike setup is important, but this can be hard to duplicate with different manufacturer frames and parts. This is where a custom fitting may be needed, but accepted standards vary between OEM manufacturers.
One key point that has not been discussed is that many riders need a proper size and fit for their vintage or new road bikes. Most riders take this for granted and seem to have a "I'll get use to it" mentality for size and adjustment of vintage parts and don't investigate the need for proper fitting. I hope that e-RITCHIE & Brian can expand upon this, but a proper fitting a vintage goes beyond C-C frame size selection. It should also include crank arm length, seat post height, handlebar stem length and height, handlebar width, brake lever positioning, seat type selection & positioning, etc. I am sure there are many "how-to" internet sites that explain many different points for view on this, but sometimes, a custom fitting for parts adjustment is the best way to go.
I know that some higher-end bike shops have Colnago custom fit machines based on a riders physical measurements (a LBS here charges $100 per person), but I wonder how e-RITCHIE and Brian B. decide on custom frame angles for a bike when the buyer may not be there for a custom fitting. A good example on the need for custom fitting is a friend of mine who is very tall just had a 26" C-C new road frame custom created. The LBS slapped high end parts on the frame and did not check with my friend about fitting. He will probably find his ride to be uncomfortable and will have to go in for a custom fitting because the LBS did not do this in advance.
What are your experiences with custom fitting vintage frames and parts - good or bad?
Regards, Steve Neago
Cincinnati, OH
>
> snipped:
> "that putting in some hours on your older bicycle would be very beneficial
to your strength and stamina-"
>
>
>
> one caveat: i don't buy this unless you are
> able to have the same contact points duplicated
> on each era's bicycle; if you "practice" on the
> old sled and then get on the racing mount on
> sunday, you'll induce injury unless the positions
> are replicated.
> e-RICHIE
> chester, ct
>
>
>
>
> -- r garni wrote:
> I of course agree with Richie, but please note: I do
> not race at all.
> Not much of a confession there. However, I think that
> there is a very good reason to have both a say, '70's
> Masi and a modern bike, say, a Litespeed for an
> addendum reason to those listed below:
>
> I have always suggested to anyone who is interested in
> riding, and has decided that he or she is serious
> about it (serious, not solemn) to go ahead and buy the
> absolute best bicycle (with the most modern
> components) that you can afford to buy. OF COURSE you
> will ride faster (than say on a '70's Masi-all other
> things being equal) but most importantly, your speed
> and the efficiency will make you want to ride more
> often. The same applies to buying pianos, a Mont Blanc
> meisterstück pen, or whathaveyou. The desire makes you
> ride more, play more, write more, and hence,
> hopefully, better, as much as anything else might,
> save having Chris Carmichael as your neighbor.
>
> The older bike(s) serve a dual purpose: one is wrapped
> up in nostalgia, the simplicity and beauty of older
> cycles and components, the unique aspects and
> indescribable qualities of each older bike (I still
> regret selling my Peugeot PX 10, but honestly, did it
> ride well? Not particularly) as well as personal
> attachment to a bygone (and beloved) philosophy.
>
> The second purpose of the older bicycle, and some
> might dispute this (or be generally annoyed) can be
> compared to the donut on the baseball bat (or
> whatever the devil it is called)-something that helps
> immensely UNTIL you step up to the plate. I feel,
> unscientifically at best, that putting in some hours
> on your older bicycle would be very beneficial to your
> strength and stamina-just make sure that you take off
> the donut before you step up to the plate, i.e.,
> switch to the '04 / '05 before you hit the starting
> line!
>
> Ricky Garni
> Carrboro, NC
>
> --- "richardsachs@juno.com"
> wrote:
>
> >
> > you answered your own question here.
> > i.e., you can't be competitive in 05 unless you're
> > using 05 technology, whatever that is. now - i don't
> > mean "material" or method of consruction...". i mean
> > moving parts, multiple gears, wind-cheating shapes,
> > a good doctor, etcetera.
> > e-RICHIE
> > chester, ct
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -- "charles nighbor" wrote:
> > A question I ponder now and then is this, does a
> > modern 2000's racing bicycle like say Litespeed with
> > all the modern components versus a say 1970's Masi
> > with all Campagnolo record components made a full
> > time bicycle racer a stronger physical rider? I can
> > see and have experienced riding my 1973 Bob Jackson
> > versus a rider of equal ability riding his modern
> > 2003 bicycle being a bit faster due to better
> > shifting, lighter wheels resulting in less mass to
> > accelerate and lighter weight to move forward but
> > does it result in a stronger rider? I can see
> > perhaps a professional racer being less tried at the
> > end of the day with less loss of physical and mental
> > fatigue to recover from but does that result in a
> > stronger rider ????? Or is it the racer riding an
> > older bicycle the stronger physically or mentally or
> > both.
> >
> > Charles Nighbor
> > in Walnut Creek, CA building up a set of Mavic
> > MA$)'s rims , Campagnolo HF Record 28H, 14/17 spokes
> > front and 14/15 spokes right side and 14/17 left
> > side all 3X
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classicrendezvous mailing list
> > Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> >
> http://www.bikelist.org/
> > _______________________________________________
> > Classicrendezvous mailing list
> > Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> >
> http://www.bikelist.org/
> >
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The all-new My Yahoo! - What will yours do?
> http://my.yahoo.com
>
>
_______________________________________________
Classicrendezvous mailing list
Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
http://www.bikelist.org/
_______________________________________________
Classicrendezvous mailing list
Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
http://www.bikelist.org/