Re: [CR]Fw: Crank Pins-- Contest

(Example: Events:Cirque du Cyclisme:2004)

From: "ternst" <ternst1@cox.net>
To: "ternst" <ternst1@cox.net>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References: <012801c5ec05$dff90e00$0200a8c0@D8XCLL51> <02a101c5f556$7a7381f0$0200a8c0@D8XCLL51>
Subject: Re: [CR]Fw: Crank Pins-- Contest
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 19:23:44 -0800
reply-type=response

I knew I'd boo-boo. These things are harder than riding and reading a race. The 12:00 position is correct. On the left side, 9:00 is nut on top. On the right side, 3:00 is nut on top. So what, we're all nuts anyways. Apologies for oversight lapse, please to add to main text. Ted Ernst Palos Verdes Estates, CA


----- Original Message -----
From: ternst
To: ternst
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: [CR]Fw: Crank Pins-- Contest



> The moment of truth:??!! Whatever that is?
>
> Instead of printing the winner's text, I'm going to announce the 3
> winners, and write about how I was taught and why.
>
> All the entries had some of what I term correct elements.
> I'll incorporate the steps and all can compare.
>
> Those that didn't submit will now have the opportunity to add to my
> technique and we should have a very good handle on the process.
>
> There are many ways to do this so we'll all have fun learning some new
> tricks.
>
> The winner is: Michael Butler. Second, Mark Agree, and third, Harvey
> Sachs.
> Michael seemed to understand the subtleties and concept the best.
>
> What I learned: The English have it correct, when the crank facing you is
> at 12:00 the nut is facing to the rear of the bike, or if at 9:00 the nut
> is facing up.
>
> First, please have the correct cotter size for the crank.
> Insert and see if pin does not go in too far so that shoulder comes out
> the other side, preventing the nut from tightening. If easy do this by
> hand, if not, gently tap with instrument till pin seats on spindle without
> pressure.
> Lightly taping the pin will not damage cup or bearing surfaces. Walloping
> with a 5lb. Sledge is not recommended.
>
> I was taught to have the round heavy part of the pin facing forward so
> that the heavy thrust of force would be against the strongest cross
> section of the pin lessening the possibility of loosening. You may mount
> them the other direction as Rebour showed in his sketch, and if seated
> properly with good materiel, it probably won't matter, but why take a
> chance.
> With a pin press no support is needed for the spindle, but if you use
> hammer and drift then support is needed for the spindle and crank so that
> when seating the pins tight and proper you won't damage the cups or
> bearings. Sometimes you may need someone to hold the bike / frame while
> you do this. Or with a little practice you can hold frame, drift, and
> hammer. the object is to get the cranks at 6:00 so you can ride nice, even
> circles.
>
> When you set up the pins you will sight the alignment from the side and
> will have to file the flat on one or both of the pins nice and flat
> changing the taper angle so that you get the cranks nice and straight.
> Pins in the same diameter often come in varying angle cuts, so it's
> critical to make sure the set is solid and you get a solid full contact on
> the spindle and can tighten the washer and nut nicely. I find that hitting
> the pin and snugging the nut and hitting pin again is hardly necessary.
> You may want to hold your drift with a pliers when setting the pins so you
> don't wallop your hand, fingers, knuckles, if you slip off or miss the
> mark.
>
> Removing the pin is easy with a press, the concave should protect the
> thread while pushing the pin back. Remove or loosen pin first if thread is
> coming through far enough. Using a hammer, I always drove the pin out with
> a copper rod, softer brass or aluminum will also do. The rod 1/2" plus in
> size so it won't bend easily.
> Again you can relieve the nut a little while doing this, it often prevents
> bending the threaded section. Both press and rod could bend your pin, so
> be prepared to insert a new one.
>
> I don't like to put grease or oil on pins, spindles or crank interfacing
> surfaces, I feel that the pressure could make the parts work somewhat, The
> stuff never got rusted internally when we were riding. If you are building
> up a show bike then by all means lube a little if you like. No harm. Campy
> doesn't allow lubricating spindles and cranks either. Slightly different
> reasons, same principle.
>
> If you hammer the crank pin in too tight, you run the risk of stretching
> the crank away from the spindle if the crank is softer then expected and
> you get an ovalized hole. The next pin will go in farther and make it more
> difficult to do nicely.
>
> This reads a lot harder than it is. I would go to a garage sale or thrift
> type shop, buy any old cotter pin bike for el cheapo cost and experiment
> with it before doing your collector iron steeds. When you're done
> practicing give it back to goodwill and take a deduction. Or throw it over
> your neighbor's fence and at his barking dog.
>
> Hope I covered enough to get you started, any Q's or comments or add on's,
> fire away.
> For the record, Michaels prize is a souvenir piece of Siberian pine from
> the ADT Velodrome, given as a VIP gift at the 2005 board track
> championships.
> Mark and Harvey each get a stainless coffee mug, from the same event. Fits
> in the car cup holder.
>
> Ted Ernst
> Palos Verdes Estates, CA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ternst" <ternst1@cox.net>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 10:03 PM
> Subject: [CR]Fw: Crank Pins-- Contest
>
>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: ternst
>> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
>> Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 9:37 PM
>> Subject: Crank Pins-- Contest
>>
>>
>> Now that you have gotten your crank pin presses or hammers in position,
>> I have a question.
>> What is the proper way to install the pins?
>> I would like to see how many of you actually know how to.
>> Contest rules:
>> 1) To protect the identities of the contestants, please submit entries
>> off list to me.
>> 2) Entries will be kept confidential.
>> 3) Objectivity, accuracy and critical logic and thinking will guide my
>> decision.
>> 4) Three prizes will awarded to the best entries. The prizes are bike
>> related, but not a bike part. I think you'll enjoy them.
>> 5) If more than three correct answers are submitted, the first three
>> will be decided on time of submission to me to be fair.
>> 6) I will print the first place entry, and the runners' up only with
>> submitee's permission.
>> 7) I'll also write my own technique for comparison.
>> Let's have a little fun.
>> We'll compare what you know vs. what I know, and we'll all learn a lot.
>> Entries close one week from today on Friday, November 25, 2005.
>> Winners and prizes will be announced on Sunday, November 27, 2005.
>> Riders, start your typing.
>> Ted Ernst
>> Palos Verdes Estates, CA