Parks headset press can be used to hold the fixed cup wrench in place.
Park website may have some pictures.
>From my days working on marine diesels, heat and penetrating oil work
wonders loosening stuff up. PB Blaster is a great penetrating fluid.
Rob Dayton Charlotte NC USA -----Original Message----- From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] On Behalf Of Joe Bender-Zanoni Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 8:36 PM To: losgatos_dale@yahoo.com Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: Re: [CR]Tricks for removing Fixed cup?
Instead of the snarky "search the archives" answer I even found my prior post. I have never been defeated with this method.
Joe Bender-Zanoni Great Notch, NJ
Archive-URL:
http://search.bikelist.org/
I use the threaded rod and washers but that is to hold in place a Diamond Tool and Horseshoe Monkey Wrench (the 11" size).
http://www.mytoolstore.com/
This forged tool has flat ground ends. You can put a pipe on it and basically have infinite torque. With the threaded rod and washers, it cannot slip off. Beware how you hold the frame as that could go first. Also beware turning the wrong way because the threads could go too with this device. Never failed yet to remoce a cup. I think Peugeots must have uses a hydraulic tool to put them in.
Good for headset locknuts and , if you dare, straightening crankarms too.
Joe Bender-Zanoni
Great Notch, NJ
<prutledge1@comcast.net> Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 7:27 PM Subject: [CR]re (fixed cup) BB Tool
Richard Cielec asks:
"Are / were there any tool makers who produce a bottom bracket fixed cup removing tool similar to the Campag design? Campag is probably not affordable so, I am seeking alternative makers. And sources - where to get one. Not ebay. I do not wish to use wrenches." ++++++++++++++++++ I don't remember where I got the idea, but it is not originally mine. But, Pete Rutledge and I had fine success with a cheap fixed cup tool. The design is not original, but works effectively and costs <$5. It's just a chunk of 1/2" fine thread rod, some washers, and a few matching nuts. 12 mm. Metric ought to do fine, too. Functionally, mine consists of 2 nuts separated by a piece of pipe or a stack of washers, so the nuts clamp down right smartly. Ideally the stack would be about 65 - 67 mm from outer edge of one nut to outer edge of the other. Leave maybe an inch (2.5 cm) of threaded end sticking out the other end. Now, how to use. Insert the stack into the fixed cup, after degreasing it and mounting a stout washer between the hex nut face and the inner flat part of the fixed cup. From the outside, slip on another stout washer, and thread down the nut. Tighten things up real well. If the Fixed cup threading is Left-hand (English or Swiss), trying to tighten the outer hex nut tries to remove the fixed cup. If the cup is Right-hand (French, Italian), put the wrench on the other end and tightening will again try to remove the fixed cup. Two hints: trust me when I say to degrease the cup first. And, you will discover that you have to use a wrench on each end sometimes, to keep trying to tighten the assembly against the fixed cup: the washers may be trying to discover new ways to be flat.
your mileage may vary.
harvey sachs mcLean va
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Dale B. Phelps wrote:
>It's been in there forever, you know what I mean, for 35 years (the frame
sn indicates 1970.) easy. And to top it off, its campi, so I don't wanna
bugger the thing up. And its Italian, AND the frame is chrome. OK, given
those variables, whats a schlubb to do to actually remove the thing?? Yes I
DO want to be able to re-use it or even offer it for stupid-large money on
squee-bay, as long as I am not asked on-list to comment or "weigh in" on
list post-auction (let alone post-re-use!)
>
> Dale "what, minus four degrees this morning?!?" Phelps,
> Longmont CO
>
>
>
>
>Dale B. Phelps,
>303 939 6967
>
> "Never be afraid to try something new. The Ark
> was designed by amateurs. The Titanic was
> designed by professionals." - R. Buckminister Fuller
>
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