Re: [CR] powder coating vs. wet paint

(Example: Production Builders:Cinelli)

Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 12:28:18 -0800 (PST)
From: "Peter Naiman" <hetchinspete1@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [CR] powder coating vs. wet paint
To: Wayne Davidson <wayne.collect@xtra.co.nz>, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
In-Reply-To: <BFDAAC98.A795%wayne.collect@xtra.co.nz>


Wayne; That being said, proper prep work is just as important whether using paint or powdercoat.

Peter Naiman Glendale, WI

P.S. Your headset was sent out a few days ago, and I through in the extra alloy lower frame race.

Wayne Davidson <wayne.collect@xtra.co.nz> wrote: Hi, just a small note, I got some parts powder coated, but they were sandblasted first. The sand blaster told me that rust can form as soon as 15 minutes depending on humidity, so yes prep would be important.....regards wayne davidson Invers NZ........

on 30/12/05 9:17 AM, Peter Naiman at hetchinspete1@yahoo.com wrote:
> Greg; We went over this very issue months ago on the CR, and there are many
> opinions on the subject, such as clear coating doesn't actually inhibit rust,
> that rust can form under the PCing, that you cannot apply transfers over
> PCing, that powdercoating is impossible to remove, that PCing goes on too
> thick and will hide delicate lugwork. These are a misunderstanding of the
> technology, as the technology of PCing has advanced in recent years.
>
> A fine company like Spectrum will powder coat a frame, and the actual
> thickness of the final coating will be as thin as or thinner than that of
> paint. Since the PCing is thin it will not hide lugwork. Rust will not form
> under a frame that has been properly prepared or prepped before PCing, as the
> PCing actually bonds itself to the metal surface, so rust doesn't form between
> the metal and powder coat layer. I've a frame done by Spectrum and I applied
> the waterslide transfers myself without difficulty and clear coated the frame.
> As for removal of powder coat, according to the folks at Spectrum, there is a
> paint remover called Aircraft Stripper that is available at Wall Mart that
> works well, but I'd find that to messy. Sand blast will not remove powder
> coat, but delicate glass or plasting bead blasting will without wearing on the
> metal of the frame.
>
> As for being a purist and keeping to being period correct, that is entirely
> another matter. Just a thought on being period correct, that if we were truly
> 100% period correct on our restorations, I would think that we would try and
> use stove baked enamels similar to those used in earlier times, and varnish
> fix transfers. Those technologies have advanced so now we are using more
> modern paints, that are not really environmentally freindly and using either
> waterslide or vinyl press on transfers. I'll not preach on that subject,
> because I believe that we can all make that determination ourselves. The main
> point for me is that no matter whether someone chooses older or newer
> technologies, we are all trying to accomplish the same thing, which is to
> preserve our vintage cycles.
>
> Peter Naiman
> Glendale, WI
>
>
> gpvb1@comcast.net wrote:
> Your opinions are your opinions. I'm more than happy to stand by what I said
> on the subject. Great for hardware and such, not so great for vintage steel
> bicycles, IMHO.
> Greg Parker
> Ann Arbor, Michigan
> Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 10:12:17 -0800
> From: Brandon Ives
>
> To: "usgeigers"
> Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR] powder coating vs. wet paint
>
> First off let me say there is nothing wrong with powdercoating a
> classic bike. Like all paint and related techniques things progress
> everyday. Personally, these days, I find powdercoating a superior way
> of painting. My main two reasons are that it's more durable and much
> more environmentally friendly. The only time you'll see corrosion
> under the paint is if it wasn't prepped well and doesn't have anything
> to do with the paint layer itself. If you don't think spider-webbing
> doesn't happen with liquid paint I'll send you a picture of my big-name
> custom painted Imron OT frame with it happening. People have also
> talked about removal being a pain. The only person that should care is
> the painter not the customer. From the customers end 'hard to remove'
> is a benefit, not a problem. As far as lug edges disappearing under
> the powder that is just poor painting technique. My wife's multi-layer
> powder job I did on her bike 5 years ago is thinner, clearer, and
> cleaner than the paint liquid Trek put on it in the '70s.
> Powdercoating has come a long way in the last 10 years, so if you
> haven't given it a look in that time please do so. Ignorance is no
> excuse so check out:
>
>
>
> best,
> Brandon"monkeyman"Ives
> Vancouver, BC
>
>
>
> On Thursday, Dec 29, 2005, at 00:16 US/Pacific, usgeigers wrote:
>> I'm a man who listens for tid-bits of good advice and massive amounts
>> of
>> wisdom. I am re-thinking the powder coat idea and am now looking into
>> spray
>> paint pricing and lead-time. Thank you both!
>

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