> >Once you have satisfied yourself that you have
>> soaked and penetrated
> >and whatever as much as possible......
> >
> >Turn the frame upside down and put the head
>> of the seatpost in a
> >big, robust vise, heavily clamped between a
>> couple of small 1/2 "
> >thick pine boards (which will squish around and
>> conform to the
> >irregular shaped aluminum seat post head)
>> Then twist the frame back
> >and forth, trying to get the seat post to turn in
>> the frame. If it
> >does twist, at all, you are in the finish stretch.
>> Twisting and
> >pulling up should free the seatpost. This
>> process takes some muscle,
> >often I have to stand up on the workbench
>> to get the leverage to
> >pull it up while twisting....
> >
>
> It is often useful to have an assistant. One of
>you concentrates on
> twisting, the other on pulling.
>
> I prefer to clamp it with the seatpost horizontal,
> that way I get
> better traction.
Ditto on the assisstant. If you can't find a beefy enough vice, use two assistants to hold the bike (with wheels in it). Then use a 12" or preferably larger Crescent or monkey wrench on the head of the post. Use a large four foot long pipe for a cheater bar. When you hear a loud "CRACK", it's not your frame breaking, it's the post moving and it's the beginning of the end for the job. Reverse direction (another loud "crack"), keep reversing, every time it will be a little easier and go a little further.
Dan Christopherson
Lopez Island WA