Phil Wood will change the bearings for $35. Anyone know what kind of tools they use?
Regards,
Jerry Moos
HM & SS Sachs <sachs@erols.com> wrote: Jerry Moos wrote:
A few months ago, I picked up some Phil BB's on eBay. These included a couple of 111 mm symmetric (no offset) Campy taper ones. I've traded one to a list member, but I'd like to trade the other as well. Anyone have a 119mm +4 (right side 4mm longer than left) or 123mm +5 Phil Wood BB they would like to trade for 111 symmetric? Phil does change axles, but it is cheaper to do a trade on the list.
Also, is it practical to change bearings oneself in Phil BB's? What tools are required? Or is it better to send them back to Phil for bearing change? ++++++++++++++++++ I'll just report on my experience and observations: On some Phil bb sets, it is possible, on some it is impossible/unfeasible, and on some others it is a Bad Idea.
Bad Idea: What I believe to have been the earliest series used a hard-edged groove with a circlip to locate the bearing with respect to the spindle. One circlip just inside each bearing. Can you say "stress riser?" Can you picture failure? Later ones used an aluminum sleeve that seems to have been glued to the spindle.
Impossible: What may have been the second series were really elegant, but not serviceable. These had the spindle, bearings, and shell all as a factory-manufactured integral assembly that did not seem to be designed for bearing replacement.
Feasible, but not recommended: I have certainly replaced bearings on the type with separate industrial bearings separated by a sleeve. Phil recommended some special tooling and a hydraulic press. Figuring that I wasn't worried about preserving the dead bearing, I have used brute force and ugly manners for disassembly. Assembly of the new parts requires just enough tooling to press on the correct parts of the bearings - the inner race when pushing onto the spindle, for example. Just think like a bearing so you think about what won't hurt, and you'll do fine. Or send your wornout Phil stuff to me for all the TLC I will give it. Just be sure to include the lock rings, so they don't get lonely.
BTW, the bearings are 17 mm x 30 mm (metric), not exactly a hardware store item. But much less expensive than the right rear wheel bearing, if I recall correctly. That one took a particularly large ID to OD ratio, and was maybe $25 each years ago.
harvey "bald bearing" sachs
mcLean va.