If you want to see what's involved, here's a Rivendell reworked to use disc brakes. I presume Grant Peterson didn't approve the evolutionary change.
or eBay item 7168566304.
As Brandon says, a fairly invasive procedure, and not to my taste. Also see the strut on the left rear triangle, to absorb the torque of the disc brake. I'd worry about just bolting one on to a regular frame.
Tom Adams, Shrewsbury NJ
Brandon Ives <brandon@ivycycles.com> wrote: Charles I'll guess you haven't looked too closely at how modern disc brakes mount. The disc brake caliper mounts to a large braze-on to the left fork blade and to another one on the left rear seat or chainstay. This is way more invasive than drilling a couple holes. I guess you could use some hose clamps to hold the caliper in place, but this is a really, REALLY bad idea as the stress would almost instantly tear the hose clamps off.
What you could do, and I have done, is use a drum-brake in the front. I prefer the Sachs but the Sturmey-Archer works pretty well too. best, Brandon"monkeyman"Ives Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
> To avoid hassle of drilling and mounting brakes in front or rear of a
> collectable track frame without holes already there I suggest the use of
> modern disc brakes and correct hubs (way past time line). This avoids
> the potential fork crown or rear brake bridge failure and frame is left
> untouched in original state.
> Charles Nighbor
> Walnut Creek, CA
> PS I seen fixed bikes up on all 4000 feet of it Mt. Diablo and have
> followed them down. All have had brakes. All made it down at about 20MPH
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