[CR]Re: Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 39, Issue 114

(Example: Component Manufacturers:Campagnolo)

From: <paul.bagshaw87@ntlworld.com>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 18:52:25 +0000
Subject: [CR]Re: Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 39, Issue 114

Re comments on Mafac Racer centre pull brakes. I have one pair complete with levers and bridges and rear seat hanger on e bay {uk}Paul. Ps just listing a 1950's Hobbs
> From: classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org
> Date: 2006/03/22 Wed PM 05:29:05 GMT
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 39, Issue 114
>
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> CR
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: not so good ebayer BEZZI 62
> 2. Blue grease
> 3. Re: not so good ebayer BEZZI 62 (Mark Poore)
> 4. Re: Dented top tube MASI (John Thompson)
> 5. Wtd: reviews/pics of Brooks Glenbrook saddlebag & Paul Racer
> (Brian Hafner)
> 6. RE: Hetchins serial number H297 from 1934 or 35. (neil foddering)
> 7. Re: Mafac centerpull ID? (Jerome & Elizabeth Moos)
> 8. Re: Mafac centerpull ID? (Jerome & Elizabeth Moos)
> 9. Re: Mafac centerpull ID? (Marcus Coles)
> 10. Cycle Sport back issues - Luis Ocana (Kevin D Salyer)
> 11. Re: Cycle Sport back issues - Luis Ocana (Jerome & Elizabeth Moos)
> 12. Re: Wanted to Buy: Raleigh Steering Tube (Steven Willis)
> 13. Re: Grease
> 14. Wanted: Source for Motobecane Grand Record decals
> (Raymond Dobbins)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 04:23:03 EST
> From: FujiFish1@aol.com
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Cc: freitas1@pacbell.net
> Subject: Re: [CR]not so good ebayer BEZZI 62
> Message-ID: <2f2.1b40e3f.31527177@aol.com>
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>
> Three different clothing purchases for me, all low dollar items, and all
> mis-described by: being too small, stained stenched and ruined fabrics where not
> mentioned, and in one case, not a cycling item at all. He says he'll take
> returns, but who wants the headache. Unless it's something with sentimental
> collectible value that I cannot find anywhere else and know that I will not be able
> to use, I'll definitely PASS on all his auctions.
>
> Ciao,
> Mark Agree
> Southfield MI
> ~ ~ ~
>
>
> Nitro Bob F wrote:
> Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 22:07:01 -0800
> From: Bob Freitas <freitas1@pacbell.net>
> To: CLASSIC RENDEZVOUS <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]not so good ebayer BEZZI 62
>
> Anyone else had trouble with this seller? 2 items bought and both were
> way smaller than he advertized (measured 18" instead of 21" arm to arm)
> even after I asked him to confirm. No reply to my complaint ,The
> first item was inexpensive but the second was not.
>
> BOB FREITAS
> MILL VALLEY,CA
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 12:16:18 +0000
> From: <greenjersey@ntlworld.com>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Blue grease
> Message-ID: <20060322111758.PCVX20480.aamtaout01-winn.ispmail.ntl.com@smtp.ntlworld.com>
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>
> In the Oct 92 edition of Cycletouring (the CTC mag.) Chris Juden reviewed "lubricant technology". He was impressed by a blue goo called Mobilgrease HP2. It was for use in quarries, marine environments and wet areas of paper mills!-sounds like typical UK cycling conditions (pre-drought). He also liked Sturmey Archer bearing grease part no. HMA107 which had a similar specification to the mobil blue stuff but less tacky for less drag.
> Ray Green, Brighton, England
>
> -----------------------------------------
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> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 03:51:47 -0800 (PST)
> From: Mark Poore <rauler83@yahoo.com>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]not so good ebayer BEZZI 62
> Message-ID: <20060322115147.33030.qmail@web53105.mail.yahoo.com>
> In-Reply-To: <2f2.1b40e3f.31527177@aol.com>
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>
> In all I have had two purchases from this seller. Both items arrived fairly quickly considering they came from Italy and were as described. When considering a jersey I always check the measurements the seller has given and look for one a few inches larger than the jerseys in my drawer. Several list members have sent me links to this sellers auctions, but by the time I check the auction out it has closed. I have sent the bezzi 62 several emails regarding items, usally Rauler jerseys, but he has never answered any emails even after purchase when asked if he would combine shipping. As with many ebay sellers it is nice to know what to expect when considering bidding on a sellers items.
>
> Mark Poore in a snowy
> Slatyfork, WV
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Mail
> Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 06:08:25 -0600
> From: John Thompson <JohnThompson@new.rr.com>
> To: CR List <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: Re: [CR]Dented top tube MASI
> Message-ID: <44213E39.7060807@new.rr.com>
> In-Reply-To: <BAY21-F20425A62C576899E5CA1CEB5D90@phx.gbl>
> References: <BAY21-F20425A62C576899E5CA1CEB5D90@phx.gbl>
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> Reply-To: john@os2.dhs.org
> Message: 4
>
> Patrick Lay wrote:
>
> > Hello again to all...I noticed a 70s Masi on ebay in my size recently
> > and found that the top tube (described as dented) was really caved in
> > and need replacement. I have had a seatube replaced back in the 80s and
> > understand the simplicity of the approach, but I was curious on exactly
> > how a frame builder would take the frame apart to replace the top tube
> > only.
>
> After measuring to determine the proper length for the replacement tube,
> you cut a section out of the middle of the tube and then pull out each
> end. Once the old tube is out, you can spread the frame enough to insert
> the replacement and braze it in place.
>
> --
> John (john@os2.dhs.org)
> Appleton WI USA
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 04:51:53 -0800 (PST)
> From: Brian Hafner <bdhafner@yahoo.com>
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]Wtd: reviews/pics of Brooks Glenbrook saddlebag & Paul Racer
> Message-ID: <20060322125153.4862.qmail@web32211.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
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>
> I have both of these. Both are great. I'd recommend them.
>
> Brian
>
> Beautiful Bucks County PA
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 12:59:49 +0000
> From: "neil foddering" <neilfoddering@hotmail.com>
> To: hetchinspete1@yahoo.com, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Cc: len@nutwood30.free-online.co.uk
> Cc: twrawson@comcast.net
> Cc: hilary.stone@blueyonder.co.uk
> Cc: flash@flashq.de
> Subject: RE: [CR]Hetchins serial number H297 from 1934 or 35.
> Message-ID: <BAY115-F15511CC01BA3B656CBC593BFD90@phx.gbl>
> In-Reply-To: <20060321155620.5835.qmail@web30912.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
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>
> Having viewed the photos, the forks appear very similar to the ones on the
> Brilliant No 2 Vibrant and other solo models illustrated in the pre-war
> Hetchin's catalogue reprinted in "Lightweight Cycle catalogues Volume I"
> published last year by the John Pinkerton Memorial Fund. I assume that this
> is an early catalogue, since there's no mention of 531 tubing, only "HM" and
> "A" butted.
>
> However, the forks on H297 don't appear to have a sharp enough forward curve
> to be Russ pattern. See the Russ forks illustrated on the CR site:
>
> http://www.classicrendezvous.com/British/Russ_Ernie.htm
>
> and photos of a frame with Russ pattern forks on:
>
> http://photobucket.com/albums/v396/hadendowa/Russ%20Forks/
>
> Incidentally, if anyone should need Russ fork blades, Hilary has about 60
> pairs NOS!
>
> Neil Foddering
> Weymouth, England
>
>
> >From: Peter Naiman <hetchinspete1@yahoo.com>
> >To: classicrendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> >CC: Flash <flash@flashq.de>, Tom Rawson <twrawson@comcast.net>, Len Ingram
> ><len@nutwood30.free-online.co.uk>
> >Subject: [CR]Hetchins serial number H297 from 1934 or 35. Date: Tue, 21 Mar
> >2006 07:56:20 -0800 (PST)
> >
> >I recently acquired a very early Hetchins that is atleast one of the three
> >earliest surviving and possibly the oldest, but this is only speculation as
> >the serial number is the lowest known to date . Prior to this, the earliest
> >known Hetchins had a serial number # 336, which was sold in April of 1935.
> >I had been contacted a number of weeks ago by a seller in the U.K. that he
> >had a very early Hetchins, and he wanted to know my interest, so I asked
> >for jpgs and a serial number. Once I reviewed the pictures, I called and
> >wrote both Len Ingram and Flash about H297 (model is unknown). We went
> >around in circles trying to figure out what H297 was. My immediate thought
> >was that it was the oldest surviving, but serial numbers prior to August
> >1935 are not decipherable, as explained by both Len Ingram and Flash.
> >
> > (For brief explanation, Len Ingram is the current Veteran Cycling Club
> >member in the U.K. responsible for Hetchins, and Flash is the Webmaster of
> >www.hetchins.org. Len currently is the keeper of hetchins sales records ans
> >a register or log of surviving Hetchins)
> >
> > In August of 1935 Hetchins went to a clearly understandable four digit
> >numbering system which gives year, month and number within that month of
> >production. Prior to that Hetchins used the three digit system which was
> >not thought to be sequential, and we're not sure how to read the numbers
> >system. In 1935 Hetchins only produced a bit over one hundred frames.
> >Understanding that H297 had a clear three digit serial number on both the
> >steering tube and right rear dropout, I concluded that she was made prior
> >to August 35, a period of which there are only two other surviving
> >Hetchins.
> >
> > Both Len and Flash had thoughts on the frame as it had a few oddities:
> > a. The frames fork had much less fork rake than prior forks from
> >Hetchins seen in catalogues and on what we see on early survivors from this
> >era.
> > b. The frame was refinished at some point hiding original details.
> > c. The rear dropouts seemed odd.
> > d. The serial number had a typical "H" in front of the three digit
> >serial number, but the other two pre-August 35 Hetchins did not.
> >
> > Both Flash, Len and I went around in circles over all these points for a
> >number of days, but even with all this I was hooked and purchased the
> >frame. Just the mystery of what this frame might be was enough !! Initially
> >both Flash and Len were suspect of the frame, but in my usual stubborness,
> >I vehemently disagreed and admittedly was incorrect on a few points, mainly
> >my understanding of the three digit serial number. Subsequent to all this
> >with the help of the seller who suggested the fork was manufactured by
> >Russ, common in this period, and help from Ray Etherton as well, and with
> >new pictures sent to both Len and Flash by the seller, they are now in
> >agreement that the frame is authentic from prior to August of 35.
> >
> > In reviewing the new pictures, and now knowing the fork might be a Russ,
> >and also understanding that little is known of early Hetchins with only two
> >other early survivors prior to August 1935, the fork now seems correct,
> >just odd for early Hetchins. Since so few survive, it's possible that other
> >early Hetchins might have used this fork in custom builds. Since initial
> >discussions, Flash has found a number of Hetchins jpgs from this era of
> >frames with similar rear dropouts. The frame number with the "H" is odd,
> >but with only two others to go by, prior precdent is limited.
> >
> > The refinish is the most intrigueing part for me. My 1939 Hetchins Trio
> >has a number of transfers that have never been seen before on other
> >Hetchins until recently, and a few that were thought to exist, but had not
> >been verified with actual evidence on a frame. Most of these transfer also
> >appear on H297 in its present state. Len and I are now in agreement that
> >H297 was refinished, as the transfers on both frames were not seen in
> >catalogue or on frames until 1938. An early postcard from a show in 1936 at
> >the Horticultural Hall, London clearly shows about a dozen Hetchins, and
> >none have the transfers (decals) that appear on both the 39 Trio and H297.
> >So H297 was clearly refinished, most likely in the late 30s to early 40s.
> >Of course this is speculation on my part as to date or period of refinish.
> >
> > Early Hetchins have a transfer with a sort of block letter look for the
> >name Hetchins for the seat tube and downtube "Hetchins name" transfer as
> >shown on the postcard and very early 1935 scources. It was only a few years
> >ago an original version of this transfer finally surfaced on a frame, which
> >can be seen on http://www.Hetchins.org . The verticle seat tube transfer is the
> >one as seen on the 36 Postcard.
> >
> > As for plans for H297, I'd thought of keeping it original, but condition
> >unfortunately warrents a total refinish, and period correct, or as close as
> >possible to what is seen on the 1936 postcard. No copies of the down tube
> >transfers exist, so based on the transfer on the Hetchins website from the
> >1936 frame, a down tube transfer will be produced. The head tube transfer
> >from this period does currently exist in repro form. I'm planning on a full
> >rechrome, and to enamel the main triangle and bottom bracket, but leaving
> >all else in chrome including the head tube. As for luglining, early
> >Hetchins are not known to have been lined, and the postcard of the
> >Horticultural Show shows no boxlining in evidence either, so none is
> >planned. Plans are to bring H297 and the Trio to Cirque in June if the
> >restoration of H297 is complete.
> >
> > Jpgs of H297 that were sent to me by the seller can be seen at my Wool
> >Jersey Gallery courtesy of Morgan Fletcher. Morgan, again thank you for
> >hosting the photos for me. Below is the URL to the jpgs:
> >
> > http://www.wooljersey.com/gallery/Hetchins-1935
> >
> > Peter Naiman
> > Glendale, WI
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 05:28:52 -0800 (PST)
> From: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
> To: Wesley Gadd <wesleygadd@sbcglobal.net>,
> Galen <gvpoole@bellsouth.net>,
> Kristopher Green <kristopher.green@gmail.com>,
> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Mafac centerpull ID?
> Message-ID: <20060322132852.64461.qmail@web82213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> In-Reply-To: <20060322021943.38036.qmail@web81411.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
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>
> Of course, many people overlook what has become, with time, a huge advantage of the Racer model (including older examples marked Dural Forge). They used a straddle wire that was merely a short brake cable. So rather than hunt for those elusive straddle wires, one simple takes that old frayed brake cable from the trash, cuts off 90% of it, and Voila! a Racer straddle wire. The genius of French engineering.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
> Big Spring, TX
>
> Wesley Gadd <wesleygadd@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> There are a couple of variations of this foil badged style of Mafac caliper. The ones pictured have the early style hard to find straddle wire, that unhooks from one side with the neat little finger grip to "QR" the caliper. The other version has a straddle wire similar to a Weinmann- captive at both ends, and so needing some other form of QR.
> The upside is that CLB or Weinmann straddle wires will work. Both Competition and 2000 calipers come in both styles.
>
> Best regards,
> Wes Gadd
> Unionville,CT
>
> Galen wrote:
> Kris,
>
> Although the photo isn't complete, they look like the Competition models of
> Mafac brakes--a higher end brake, and very nicely finished compared to the
> Racer and other entry level models. They still squeal, but with a very
> refined tone!
>
> Galen Poole
> Jackson, MS
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kristopher Green"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 6:51 AM
> Subject: [CR]Mafac centerpull ID?
>
>
> > Can anyone identify the Mafac centerpull pictured on the Paul Fuller
> > that Steve Kurt posted last night to this forum?
> >
> >
> >
> > It appears to incorporate some of the nice details and finish of the
> > Dia Compe Gran Compe brakeset into the basic Mafac Mod Competition
> > architecture.
> >
> > Warning: these may be off topic, timewise, but heavens--if Mafac isn't
> > considered a KOF, who can be?
> >
> > Kris Green
> > Olympia WA
> > _______________________________________________
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 05:55:56 -0800 (PST)
> From: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
> To: Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Mafac centerpull ID?
> Message-ID: <20060322135556.96338.qmail@web82210.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> In-Reply-To: <20060322132852.64461.qmail@web82213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
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>
> Actually, I think I misspoke. They are short derailleur cables rather than brake cables, but you get the point.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
> Big Spring, TX
>
> Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Of course, many people overlook what has become, with time, a huge advantage of the Racer model (including older examples marked Dural Forge). They used a straddle wire that was merely a short brake cable. So rather than hunt for those elusive straddle wires, one simple takes that old frayed brake cable from the trash, cuts off 90% of it, and Voila! a Racer straddle wire. The genius of French engineering.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
> Big Spring, TX
>
> Wesley Gadd wrote:
> There are a couple of variations of this foil badged style of Mafac caliper. The ones pictured have the early style hard to find straddle wire, that unhooks from one side with the neat little finger grip to "QR" the caliper. The other version has a straddle wire similar to a Weinmann- captive at both ends, and so needing some other form of QR.
> The upside is that CLB or Weinmann straddle wires will work. Both Competition and 2000 calipers come in both styles.
>
> Best regards,
> Wes Gadd
> Unionville,CT
>
> Galen wrote:
> Kris,
>
> Although the photo isn't complete, they look like the Competition models of
> Mafac brakes--a higher end brake, and very nicely finished compared to the
> Racer and other entry level models. They still squeal, but with a very
> refined tone!
>
> Galen Poole
> Jackson, MS
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kristopher Green"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 6:51 AM
> Subject: [CR]Mafac centerpull ID?
>
>
> > Can anyone identify the Mafac centerpull pictured on the Paul Fuller
> > that Steve Kurt posted last night to this forum?
> >
> >
> >
> > It appears to incorporate some of the nice details and finish of the
> > Dia Compe Gran Compe brakeset into the basic Mafac Mod Competition
> > architecture.
> >
> > Warning: these may be off topic, timewise, but heavens--if Mafac isn't
> > considered a KOF, who can be?
> >
> > Kris Green
> > Olympia WA
> > _______________________________________________
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 09:05:48 -0500
> From: Marcus Coles <marcoles@ody.ca>
> To: Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Mafac centerpull ID?
> Message-ID: <442159BC.4020609@ody.ca>
> In-Reply-To: <20060322132852.64461.qmail@web82213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> References: <20060322132852.64461.qmail@web82213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> MIME-Version: 1.0
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> Precedence: list
> Message: 9
>
> Jerome & Elizabeth Moos wrote:
> > Of course, many people overlook what has become, with time, a huge advantage of the Racer model (including older examples marked Dural Forge). They used a straddle wire that was merely a short brake cable. So rather than hunt for those elusive straddle wires, one simple takes that old frayed brake cable from the trash, cuts off 90% of it, and Voila! a Racer straddle wire. The genius of French engineering.
> >
> >
> Preferring a more flexible cable for the straddle wire on Racers and
> some cantis and needing a little more potential excitement in my life I
> have used and up until typing this got away with using discarded
> stainless shifter cables.
>
> Remember kids, shifter cables are not brake cables, don't try this at home.
> Experiments take place under controlled conditions using expendable riders.
>
> Marcus Coles
> London, Ontario, Canada
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 06:30:08 -0800 (PST)
> From: Kevin D Salyer <kdsalyer@sbcglobal.net>
> To: classicrendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Cycle Sport back issues - Luis Ocana
> Message-ID: <20060322143008.15141.qmail@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
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> Message: 10
>
> In my inquiry about information on the Team Champion, Ed Granger mentioned:
>
> "Cycle Sport did a feature on Ocana within the past couple of years with some good photos of his bikes."
>
> Does anyone know how to get a copy of this (I have contacted Cycle World directly and waiting for their reply)?
>
> Many thanks to all who offered suggestions and information about my earlier posting.
>
> Kevin Salyer
> Lafayette, CA
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 06:41:18 -0800 (PST)
> From: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
> To: Kevin D Salyer <kdsalyer@sbcglobal.net>,
> classicrendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: Re: [CR]Cycle Sport back issues - Luis Ocana
> Message-ID: <20060322144119.1650.qmail@web82207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> In-Reply-To: <20060322143008.15141.qmail@web81204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
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>
> Of course some of the those "Team Champions" Ocana rode, like the one on which he famously crashed while pursuing Merckx down a mountain descent in a torrential thunderstorm in the TdF, were actually Speedwell titanium frames painted in the Motobecane Team Champion scheme.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
> Big Spring, TX
>
> Kevin D Salyer <kdsalyer@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> In my inquiry about information on the Team Champion, Ed Granger mentioned:
>
> "Cycle Sport did a feature on Ocana within the past couple of years with some good photos of his bikes."
>
> Does anyone know how to get a copy of this (I have contacted Cycle World directly and waiting for their reply)?
>
> Many thanks to all who offered suggestions and information about my earlier posting.
>
> Kevin Salyer
> Lafayette, CA
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 11:44:29 -0500
> From: "Steven Willis" <smwillis@verizon.net>
> To: "Kathleen Dargis" <info@kathleendargis.com>,
> <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: Re: [CR]Wanted to Buy: Raleigh Steering Tube
> Message-ID: <025201c64dcf$e4307db0$2d01a8c0@bike1>
> References: <C1B2AF91-AC46-4775-A2B4-1889AB3F086B@kathleendargis.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
> reply-type=response
> MIME-Version: 1.0
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> Precedence: list
> Message: 12
>
> Well the good news is there are lots of old English bikes out there you can
> get a fork from. I have a complete bike that should be a close match you can
> have just getting it is the problem. Ask around at the local shops some
> should have an old frame you can have for next to nothing.
> Steven Willis
> The Bike Stand
> 1778 East Second Street
> Scotch Plains NJ 07076
> 908-322-3330
> http://www.thebikestand.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kathleen Dargis" <info@kathleendargis.com>
> To: <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 1:01 AM
> Subject: [CR]Wanted to Buy: Raleigh Steering Tube
>
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > I have a 1972 Black Men's Raleigh Sport 3 speed, my pride and joy, but
> > he's not happy right now.
> > I need to replace the fork for my front wheel, the steering tube is bent.
> >
> > Here's are the specs;
> >
> > 26 x 1/38" wheeled Raleigh
> > 15 cm ( 6") steerer/steering tube
> > 22.2 mm (7/8") I.D. (stem quill)
> >
> > Does anyone out there, by chance, have a replacement part for sale?
> > If not, any suggestions on where I could track one down?
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Kathleen Dargis
> > Oakland, CA
> > USA
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 12:01:52 EST
> From: StuartMX4@aol.com
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]Re: Grease
> Message-ID: <314.c943b7.3152dd00@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 13
>
> I used to use Saxonol on cables on bikes, motorcycles and cars. It is solid
> like grease until you rub it between your fingers when it goes as liquid as
> oil. Can't get it any more in Britain. Does it still exist?
> Stuart Tallack in West Sussex
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 09:30:39 -0800 (PST)
> From: Raymond Dobbins <raydobbins2003@yahoo.com>
> To: Classic Rendezvous Bike List <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Wanted: Source for Motobecane Grand Record decals
> Message-ID: <20060322173039.23423.qmail@web60421.mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 14
>
> I have an early 70's Grand Record that used to be black and red. I had it repainted (white and red) 15 years ago but never got around to locating decals for it. Can anybody recommend a source for them? I know there are people who can reproduce them if I supply the art, but I don't have it, so I'm hoping to find somebody who has original decals or ready made repros. If I have to supply the art, it'll probably be another 15 years before I get around to it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ray Dobbins
> Miami Florida
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
> End of Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 39, Issue 114
> **************************************************
>

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