For tasks like this one, I've found that Barge contact cement is much better than other brands...it's what we use when resoling rock-climbing shoes.
Do let the stuff dry completely...overnight is best. When you go to stick the materials together, the two dry pieces will need encouragement (pressure, rubbing, etc.) to stick. This makes it possible to actually do the work without premature sticking and resultant throwing of saddle and leather across the room in disgust.
In step 5, I'm pretty certain that by "back side of leather", Rodney is referring to the side that will eventually be the front side. You don't spray the glued side.
One *very* important omitted step in this kind of archival use of contact cement is the application of heat (in my experience). I use a heat gun (carefully, you don't want to melt the base). In a pinch, a hair dryer will work, if you crank it up and restrict the opening some to superheat the air (although this will blow an overheat breaker on some models). Find somebody who does electronics work and borrow their heat-shrink gun. After you're happy with the placement, work your way over the saddle, heating the puppy to where you cannot possibly touch it with bare hands, and then pressing the leather to the base and letting things cool while maintaining pressure.
Upholstery shops and good fabric/craft stores are both good sources for the material you need. Barge is found at better hardware stores.
Scott Minneman San Francisco, CA
-----Original Message----- From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] On Behalf Of Rodney Handsfield Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 1:46 PM To: Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]Recovering an old saddle
Just a few pointers: 1. Cut the leather 2-3 inches larger than the perimeter of the seat 2. drape the leather over the seat and test fit - it should lay flat all over except for the nose 3. Fit the nose of the saddle - cut out a small wedge of leather from the nose so that it lays flat, then sew the cut edges back together on the backside of the leather - you can hand sew it using a heavy needle and thread and a thimble; make your stitches close together and use a whip stitch (sew over the cut edges), by sewing the backside, when you turn the leather over to put it on the seat, the stitches won't show. 4. Whether you use contact cement, rubber cement or even sew-up glue (which I have used with fine results) be sure you let it dry completely on both surfaces before fitting the leather. 5. spray some warm water on the back side of the leather and let it soak in - wipe off any drips. 6. When you apply the new leather, start with the nose and then stretch the leather and attach to the back; carefully stick the rounded sides of the seat first - do the flat sides last, stretching and sticking down the leather 7. you will no doubt have wrinkles where the leather curves over the edges of the seat - try to create multiple small wrinkles out of a big wrinkle, cut darts(slits)where you have to in order to make it lay flat.
8. You may have to unstick and restick the leather several times in spots until you get it perfect. 9. when you like the results, take an old towel, tear it into 2-3" strips and tightly wrap the strips around the seat and let it dry for a day.
10. When you take off the strips it will be tighter than a baby's you know what - turn it over and any stubborn spots that don't want to stick can be reglued; clothespins can be used to hold down those areas until dry. 11. when everything is dry trim off the excess with a single edge razor blade or Exacto. Rod Handsfield, Wichita Kansas