I don't know who your builder is and I don't really care because this is one of those things that happens to every builder. Touring bikes are particularly hard in the whole braze-on department. Since it sounds like you're building it up yourself it looks like the builder built to the best of his knowledge. Without all the parts on their bench the builder is really making guesses on placement of things like rack bosses. Building a frame like this can sometimes be like trying to solve a puzzle with only half the pieces.
This problem might be solved by simply changing the rear brake caliper to one with a different length or angle arm. There are also a ton of ways to adapt a rack mounting strap to move around the brake and look clean. Whenever I have someone ask about a touring frame I always try to move them away from side-pull calipers, because in many cases (yours just being one of them) they can be a real pain to place with the rack. Center-pull, cantilever, or OT disc brakes work just as well and don't have the same placement problems.
Rod if you'd like to send me some pics off-list of the problem area and tell me what brake and rack your using I'd be happy to help you trouble shoot. best, Brandon"monkeyman"Ives back in Vancouver, B.C. for a few more days.
On Monday, Apr 24, 2006, at 08:06 US/Pacific, rodk3d@comcast.net wrote:
> Hi all,
> I'm seeking some collective wisdom on a custom frame I ordered and am
> trying build up. For those of you who know who the builder is please
> don't mention his name. I'm not trying to bash anyone, I'm simply
> trying to determine what should be done that's fair to all.
>
> I ordered a custom touring frame from a prominent CR framebuilder. I'm
> now in the process of building it up and she's close to being done.
> However, after hanging the calipers on the frame I notice that there
> is no way the strap from the rear rack that connects to the frame will
> work. The strap will literally be going right thru the cable adjuster
> on the caliper arm where the brake cable goes in. The rack bosses are
> on the outside of the stays, and it looks like they should have been
> on the inside. The frame is powdercoated.
>
> It's possible that some kind of custom bracket could be made that
> would snake around the brake, but that seems kind of "hokey" and not
> fair to me. I'm sure the bosses could be removed and redone, but are
> the stays then still as strong? Is redoing a powdercoated frame
> possible and viable? Should I get a new frame? My money back? I'm open
> to any ideas and thoughts.
>
> thanks,
> Rod (disgusted in CO) Kronenberg
> Fort Collins, CO