Todd: What I do in your case is try to drip Kroil into the adj. cup side and see if any starts to work its' way in but this could take a week or two. Some gentle sharp taps on the frame with a hammer sometimes helps. If you don't like to hit on the frame directly on the outside where the thread is, then you could take a piece of copper or brass rod about 1cm round and hit on that against the frame. Old time machinists used to do that trick to"shock" thread and rust, maybe disturbing the rust,cup, frame interface and perhaps loosening it up a little to move with tool. I found some round thickwall tubing or a fat piece of metal with a small hole to fit over spindle and big enough to fit around the basic perimiter of the RH fixed cup, as well as a piece of stock for the adj. side. These pieces have to be fat enough to be a little wider than the spindle sticks out. One needs a vise big and strong enough to hold the pieces and frame tightly. Put a Campy size fixed cup tool on the fixed cup, the two pieces over the spindle and tighten the whole works up in the vice. Now you have the frame in the vice, position it so that the tool is vertical. Hold the frame tight, or your assistant should so it doesn't slide. Take a hammer or mallet and hit the tool in the loosening direction. A few good taps will hopefully do the trick, Never had one not loosen. The wrench is solid around the cup, while your whole assembly is being held very snug in the vice so that the rotational direction shouldn't round off the wrench, which shouldn't slip or strip away because it's being held too tight. After the cup moves a 1/4 turn or so, loosen the vice and move the wrench back to vertical. This time don't tighten quite so tight because the cup should be coming out and we're loosening against the vice pressure. Once cracked loose then it should come out much easier. Take out the guts, leaving your adj cup in the frame. If the pin wrench doesn't budge eaily then use a tool similar to the one Sheldon shows and get the adj cup out. My tool like that has both sides longer so I can hold the tool in the vice easier and use the frame for leverage. Any respectable shop has one of these devices. If your LBS doesn't, then get another shop or send it away to be done, or buy the tool yourself. My BB cup removing bar is over 30 years old, and will never wear out! All us older U.S. guys, our Canadian and British colleagues have done this for years, and there's no excuse for the young shops who do expensivo repairs not to be set up accordingly. If they're to dumb, lazy or arrogant, find someone else. What you teach them they will have forever, and make money while helping someone. If you have any other Q's on this that I didn't explain well enough please ask for clarification, or if any of you other experienced guys want to chime in to add a hint or two, please join the discussion. Thanks. Ted Ernst Palos Verdes Estates, CA USA
> Hello- this has probably been asked a thousand times, but how should I
> proceed to free up a stuck Campy bottom bracket. I haven't done anything
> but
> remove the lock ring, which was also stuck. The non-drive cup looks really
> seized, and the pin tool probably won't take the pressure required.
>
> ***The rust was removed via razor blade and sand paper and the steel is
> solid and beautiful. two steps forward, one step back.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Todd Cirelli
> Mechanicsburg, PA