I prefer Steven's method a bit more than Aldo's, not that A.'s would not
work, but if the screw is SS or something a bit harder it may need a bit
of a more aggressive approach to striking for the grip. I do not like the expansion of the threaded potion in the hole. I would not hesitate to use Aldo's method in a larger hole application. Steven's is the standard process for removal and would work fine. many fork end fender eyelets are through tapped, which would make this a
far easier project. drill a small hole either through or partway suitable for a small (6-32, 5-40) tap, you can do this tight with a fractional drill, then 'pretend' you are tapping the remnants of the screw with a tapered tap- when it catches and is about to tap, it will take the path of least resistance and pass through the other side. You can do this with a self tapping screw if you can find them small enough,
but the taper is far more accommodating on the tap. If you are adept with a flex shaft and magnifying glass, you can slot it carefully and use a screw driver. you can do this from the back if you like.
btw, I really like DeWalt bullet tipped drills for working metal, they have less of a tendency to wander than all the others (IMHO). This application may be too small. Don't go too fast a speed, you do not want heat. an excellent lubricant to use is meat grease such as bacon fat. It does not break down with heat.
Steve Maas wrote:
> The standard way to fix this is with a screw extractor. You drill a hol
e
> into the broken-off screw, twist in the extractor, and twist out the
> screw at the same time. It's a little tricky to do, especially for smal
l
> screws, so it might be best to take it to someone who is experienced at
> this.
>
> Another option is to drill out the screw and re-tap at the next larger
> size; a third is to drill it out and install a threaded insert. But I
> think you probably want the first option.
>
> Also worthwhile to keep a few of the most common sized taps around, if
> only for cleaning out screw holes. They're not expensive.
>
> Steve Maas
> Long Beach, California
>
>
> Bob Hanson wrote:
>
>> My friend got his newly repainted bike shipped back to him this week.
>> Today he attempted to fit mudguards onto it. Three screws went in snu
g,
>> but okay. However, the last snapped off inside the front fork eyelet.
>>
>> I saw the bike today. The screw had snapped off flush with the eyelet
,
>> after almost reaching through to the other side. He said it was going
>> in tighter than the rest, but he just kept turning it harder, figuring
>> it would simply "clean out" any excess fresh paint that may have built
>> up in the threads.
>>
>> Before either he or I try to come up with a "solution"... Could someo
ne
>> PLEASE advise me on the best way to remove the broken screw. He just
>> had the bike painted, so he definitely does not want to mess up the
>> frame. He also wants to keep the threads from being damaged.
>>
>> This is something I've never encountered before so I really would not
>> know how to proceed. I assume the screws are a standard 5mm metric,
>> however, I don't recognize the fork tips - they're definitely not Camp
y.
>>
>> In fact, this raises another question. The frameset is British (Sorry
,
>> can't remember the name and decals were not re-applied). So, could the
re
>> have once been a very similar sized, but perhaps Whitworth or BSC thre
ad
>> rather than metric, used to tap the eyelets? Maybe a "close but not
>> quite the same" thread would account for the metric screws really
>> fitting too tightly... or rather, perhaps not a suitable fit at all.
>>
>> I would greatly appreciate ANY advice. I know he's going nuts over
>> this. I am pretty steady handed with a drill, but would not even know
>> how to proceed to try to extract the screw. I would like to at least
>> give him some responsible advice - before he simply jumps in and does
>> the absolute wrong thing.
>>
--
gabriel l romeu
chesterfield, nj, usa
± http://studiofurniture.com Ø http://journalphoto.org ±