[CR]Polishing aluminum parts

(Example: Production Builders:Cinelli)

Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 16:02:27 -0600
Thread-Topic: Polishing aluminum parts
Thread-Index: Acci8DSMdacUct2bSIi6aFcDVJUnjg==
From: "Watts, Gary J (Vancouver, WA USA)" <gary.watts@hp.com>
To: "classicrendezvous" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Subject: [CR]Polishing aluminum parts

I got a fair number of questions about the polishing method I used on the Colnago Super Campy parts. I thought I'd post that information here for anyone that is interested.

Ray Dobbins is to blame for "baiting" me with the beautiful examples of polished parts on his webpage such as his Molteni replica:

http://www.raydobbins.com/molteni_replica/molteni_replica.htm

He also has a useful page on polishing of his own, using a machine buffer here:

http://www.raydobbins.com/polishing/

The list there is good for knowing what parts will need to have the anodizing stripped first.

I used the Easy-Off method (contains lye), leaving it on for 5-10 minutes. This is not needed on non-anodized parts.

Many of the parts had dents, scratches and other surface abnormalities. Polishing will make the part "shiny" byt not optically flat. This is very visible on flat surfaces.

1) Strip off the anodizing 2) File or sand out all imperfections. The exact method will depend on where and how deep the issues are. 3) Start working through the various grits. I used 220 (Silicon Carbide paper like 3M wet-N-Dry, the black stuff)for the big offenders after filing, followed by 400, 600, 800, and 1200. After this, I started the Micromesh papers going up to 3600. 4) Polish with Simichrome polish. This is great stuff and is best hand applied. 5) I applied a coat of liquid carnuba wax (Meguiars or Mothers) to provide some simple protection.

Patience is the key and not skipping grits. You'll get a mirror if you follow the steps.

Gary Watts
Vancouver, WA
USA