All this congecture about wicking methods is misguided. Try it. It wont work in this situation. The solder is already pulled deep into the crevasses of the windings...
But you don't need to think about any of that.
Just cut the broken spoke free of the hub and rim and twist it back and forth a couple of times. The wraps just pull apart and break free. A little clip with side cutters might be in order. The solder usually doesn't stick to the spokes very well. If there is a small amount of residual solder stuck to the remaining spoke just scrub it off with steel wool.
I've never encountered this, but if the wraps are stubborn and wont come apart, just cut the other spoke and replace them both.
Jamie Swan Cell - 516-238-6782 Centerport Cycles Inc. 245 Main St. Northport, N.Y., U.S.A. 11768 631-262-0909 http://www.centerportcycles.com (mapped) http://www.cabinfeverauctions.com http://www.cabinfeverexpo.com http://www.limws.org http://www.liatca.org
On Dec 22, 2006, at 9:33 PM, Tim Victor wrote:
> On 12/22/06, John Betmaniswrote:
>> At 09:21 AM 12/21/06 -0600, John Thompson wrote:
>>
>> >FWIW, a solder wick doesn't need to be copper; steel works just
>> as well.
>> >Try an old piece of brake cable as a wick -- works fine for me.
>>
>> Well, possibly a new piece of brake cable, degreased with solvent and
>> soaked with an aggressive flux. Any old inner cable I've has was
>> quite
>> black and oily. :)
>>
>> John Betmanis
>> Woodstock, Ontario
>> Canada
>
> If you have a Radio Shack nearby: Desoldering braid, 5', part
> #64-2090,
> $3.99. Or order from the website. I've never needed to use it on
> spokes
> but it works great on electronic circuits.
>
> Peace,
>
> Tim Victor
> Greensboro, NC, USA