Re: [CR]Cold-setting Reynolds '753' frame

(Example: Books)

From: <hersefan@comcast.net>
To: john@os2.dhs.org, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Subject: Re: [CR]Cold-setting Reynolds '753' frame
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 2006 15:45:32 +0000


Perhaps more importantly, is the main triangle in alignment? Many folks worry about the rear triangle when in fact the main may (or may not be out). If you were to align the main triangle (eek, 753!) then the rear alignment would then change once again! Folks like to worry about the rear because that is often what is under their control with string and relatively easy bending, but I don't worry about the rear until the front is in order.

Reality is that if the main is pretty good, and the rear is off by a few mm, then no worries. And are you splitting differences to know where true center is anyway? If going off the seatube with string, you must split in half the relative difference between two meassurements to get the amount your off center. So if one dropout is 3mm farther out relative to the seatube than the other, your really off 1.5mm. If dish and tires are within that amount your doing well.

Mike Kone in Boulder CO


-------------- Original message --------------
From: John Thompson

> Larry Myers wrote:

\r?\n>

\r?\n> > I have the opportunity to purchase an on-topic Peugeot bike built

\r?\n> > from '753 tubing. The rear triangle is several millimeters out of

\r?\n> > alignment, and I was hoping to get advice/ opinions from any listers

\r?\n> > who have dealt with this before. I have the skills & equipment to do

\r?\n> > a professional job, but I have been told in the past that it is NOT

\r?\n> > reccomended to cold-set this particular tubeset. I would appreciate

\r?\n> > any info!

\r?\n>

\r?\n> No, don't try it. Direct, personal experience (testing at Trek) has

\r?\n> shown that 753 is more likely to fail (i.e. tube buckling) than take a set.

\r?\n>

\r?\n> --

\r?\n> John Thompson (john@os2.dhs.org)

\r?\n> Appleton WI USA