Re: [CR]CUP REMOVAL

(Example: Framebuilders:Chris Pauley)

Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2006 09:58:01 -0600
From: "John Thompson" <JohnThompson@new.rr.com>
To: classic rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Subject: Re: [CR]CUP REMOVAL
References: <9327C3B25BD3C34A8DBC26145D88A90706431E@hippy.home.here>
In-Reply-To: <9327C3B25BD3C34A8DBC26145D88A90706431E@hippy.home.here>


Mark Bulgier wrote:
> You can make an approximation of the Campy "rocketship" four-pronged
> punch easily enough, I have done it. You need some 3/8" tubing, ideally
> some tough stuff like 4130 (Cr-Mo). (Yes there are places that will sell
> you as little as 1 foot of this*, see below). Fairly thick wall (like
> .058 or more) is best, but I used .035 which is kinda thin and it
> worked. 1/4" tubing might work too if that's all you have.
>
> You make a hacksaw cut starting at one end, down the length of the tube
> about an inch and a half, then turn 90° and do it again, so you have 4
> prongs. Bend each prong out, right near the tip, until the 4 prongs
> make a circle that is a little bit larger diameter than the hole in the
> cup. Note, when bending the prongs out, they will want to bend at their
> root (where your hacksaw cuts stopped), which won't work due to the
> confines of the space behind the cup. You need to apply leverage so as
> to get the prongs to bend out in the last 1/2" or less. Do not bend them
> any further than necessary.

One way to prevent the problem you describe is to only make your cuts about 1/2" at first, then make your bend, and then continue the cuts the rest of the way.

--
John Thompson (john@os2.dhs.org)
Appleton WI USA