Here is one company with an on-line store that carries the acid flux for stainless. It looks like the minimum quantity is one gallon for $35. I think you want their acid #75.
http://www.sra-solder.com/
Dennis Young Hotaka, Japan
> Can't help you with the latex, but as for soldering stainless
> steel: you
> need a different flux, one that is highly acidic. Problem is, such a
> flux is hard to find. In the past, there were quite a few on the
> market.
> I've tried mixing hydrochloric acid (AKA muratic acid) with liquid
> flux,
> and it works OK, but not really very well. If anyone has a source of a
> good flux, I'd like to know, too.
>
> Steve Maas
> Long Beach, California
>
>
> Michael Wilkinson wrote:
>
>> But Mike, it is February! Ok, I was about to post a question to
>> the list
>> regarding liquid latex supplies for protecting the cotton casing
>> sidewalls
>> of my stash of sewups... I had just checked Branford Bike who used
>> to carry
>> a product just for this use but it was no longer listed on their
>> website.
>> What to do?
>>
>> Then I remembered, I bought some liquid latex from a costume store
>> to finish
>> off last years "Emergency Room Doctor bitten by a Vampire" costume
>> and dug
>> it out. My only concern was it was flesh colored so I wasn't to
>> sure if it
>> would look good or just bite :) Anyway, with tan sidewalls it was
>> perfect.
>>
>> I have couple of questions. First, where are the cheap sources for
>> liquid
>> latex? Second, this has been some frustration for me for awhile. When
>> finishing cable ends, I usually solder them instead of crimping.
>> But, I have
>> found when dealing with stainless steel, teflon coated, slick
>> cables my
>> solder just runs off.
>>
>> I use flux and with galvanized cables the solder will suck right
>> into the
>> cable strands and stick very well.
>>
>> What am I doing wrong here? Do I need a different solder? Just using
>> lead/tin - not sure on percentage.
>>
>> Mike Wilkinson
>> Castle Rock, CO