Just throwing my 2 cents into the grease thread: I also have had experience
restoring automobiles, and lots of bike work (but I'm certainly a rank ama
teur compared to some of the CR listers). I think some distinction must be
made to the 2 different uses of grease, it's both a lubricant and a barrier
. When it's used on surfaces like the tapers of a crank spindle or the seat
post/seat tube interface, the object of greasing is not to lubricate those
things, but to prevent moisture from entering and causing galling/corrosion
/rust/seizure...all that bad stuff. Same thing when between threads of diss
imilar metals, it's not to make the assemblies slippery and cause them to l
oosen, it's to prevent them freezing solid through what is also called "col
d welding". So many terms for the same nightmare. The only time I can remem
ber specific instructions NOT to use something petroleum is when installing
automobile head bolts. One is advised not to OIL the threads due to the po
ssiblity of the oil being so compressed by the highly torqued bolts in tigh
t fitting threads that it could act just like an hydraulic jack and crack a
cast iron or cast AL block. Otherwise, the only thing I'd say for silicone
grease is that it's virtues are the ability to withstand high temperature,
and it's friendliness to rubber. Against it is the fact that it will penet
rate paint permanently, down to the metal, and make repainting a PITA. I do
n't think either thing makes it a logical choice for bicycle applications.
Most antiseize I've used is a grease base with either graphite or copper ad
ded, seems needed when using titanium parts, but the steel and aluminum we
are concerned with will be served just as well with a good quality conventi
onal grease, IMHO of course.
Alan Goldsworthy
in greasy SF, CA, USA