Don, all: Ray and I are on the same page here.
Saddle is circumspect, pedals? hardly, needs block chain, Grips? maybe, What
tubing and weight of bike, amateur or pro model?, who the hell put that
chainring on?, the paint and decals make my eyebrows move around, wonder
about paint myself, but don't have catalogue to verify.
the chrome vs nickle ia good point, and the real good bikes I think had BSA
hubs, not what looks like New Departure.
Rims seem to be refinished, too bad, should have stonies for regular riding
tires.
Frame and fork seem to be Pierce alright, bar and stem fine, headset, too.
The comments of our CR gang are reasonably complete, I think we're quite on.
As to price? Caveat emptor.
Ted Ernst
Palos Verdes Estates
CA USA
>I would tend to agree with Ted on this one. There were not many day glow
> orange bikes of that period. The Pierce decal is laying nicely on top of
> the paint so you can see the edges of the water transfer. Cannot tell from
> the photos if this is a Pierce Angola or Pierce Buffalo with the latter
> being more desireable. Would like to have seen a profile of the head tube
> to match it against my Pierce bike. Mine is not the track version but the
> first shock resistant model with similar styling. One thing I never
> mastered was the removal of the BB. I'll give 10 bucks to anyone who could
> explain to me how to remove a BB/crank set that has a 5/16 dia capped port
> hole in the bottom that accesses a slotted internal flange. There is no
> external means to remove it, the hole is small and dark and puting a
> restrictor in the hole to line up with the slot and forcing the cranks in
> either direction does not seem to do anything. I am afraid to apply to
> much pressure as these old bikes are brittle. It has stumpped bike shop
> mechanics and veteran Wheelman alike.
>
> Ray Homiski
> Elizabeth, NJ