T f T T o T.
Time for Ted's Tips on Tubulars.
First off, many of the posts had great and correct info.
Some of them were a mixture of fact and rumor.
Let's try to sort it out.
First, a lot of the info was a combo of old orange shellac and mastic
mixing.
S & S:
The reason for stretching is so one can mount the tire without starting in
the kitchen and ending up with glue all thru the house and out the front
door onto the porch.
Don't stretch the tire too hard so the stitching rips too much, when the
sewing starts to let itself be heard, back off and move tire position. Then
stretch a little more.
I don't care what the hell kind of contortions or devices you use to achieve
this.
When using a rim only, remember the rim will bow as you begin to pull the
tire onto it and it gets much more difficult because you are losing
directional pressure as the rim ovalizes. I've cracked a few ()*$^&Y rims
doing this.
A lot of guys/gals will have an old wheel or a rim with a hub and a few
spokes in it for the first stretch on and then change over to the hoop only
for storage.
If a tire is very tight even on a rim, hold your foot on the rim, put a
small bar/screwdriver between tire and rim and slowly stretch and work your
way around the rim, gently stretching the tire.
Sew-ups are great in that the stitching is done so that the times "shrinks",
reduces circumference as inflated and gets tighter on rim.
Built in anti roll off device.
Stretching is only the first benefit.
Tires are only guaranteed by distributor and hopefully by your trustworthy
retailer IF there is NO GLUE on the tire.
Then you should be able to take it back .
You might want to put a layer of masking tape or some such on your old rims
to protect your base tape in case of return necessity.
The tire when stored on rim will also let itself be straightened and then
develop a small "seat" line on edges so it finds its' proper spot on rim
easier when mounted.
If it's crooked take it back.
It will also act as a test against any defect in sewing, puncture, valve,
protector lifting off casing, sidewall defect, you name it, then it can go
back for replacement at no charge to you.
Put glue on it and you bought it, sucker!
That's why a really good professional shop will do this for you and have
their tires on rims so they can take care of that before selling. DUH!
Nice for you to inspect, too.
When storing your tires it's nice to have them on rims lightly inflated to
roundness. When stretching to install, dynamite 'em for the final stretch
before installing.
I don't believe in putting more than one coat of glue on the base tape and
never for storage. Gets too dry and could crack base tape when getting ready
for use.
If a tire is left flat on or off rim too long, the crease along the casing
could accelerate the tube deterioration and the casing could also get dry
and/or loosen in it's plys
I like to store my tires on rims, keep in dark cooler spot or in big black
plastic bag to keep smog and ozone away, while periodically keeping inflated
to round, maybe 30/40 pounds air.
I've known guys to keep tires in nitrogen, or deflate, roll up flat and put
in freezer then slowly thaw out and then put on rims, etc. TOO MUCH!
I don't think keeping tires more than a year or so makes any good sense, so
try to estimate your useup time and buy accordingly.
That gives an easy overview on S & S'ing. If any Q's please feel free to
query on or off line depending on how you rate the merits of your inquiry.
I'm easy and won't judge, in fact I always hope to learn stuff when I start
in on these subjects.
Next installment: Prep for mounting. (Don't go there!)
Ted Ernst
Palos Verdes Estates
CA USA
> Dale B. Phelps wrote:
>
>> The rationale for "dry" glue is like this: layer on the base tape,
>> layer on the rim, SOME people treat those as sticky-to-each-other
>> sorta like rubber cement. But I do this: when I want to mount a tire,
>> I apply a third thin layer to the center of the rim, and stretch the
>> ("pre-stretched") tire into place on the rim. The wet glue makes it a
>> LOT easier to do any centering of the tire onto the rim, then the
>> solvent in the mastic infiltrates the two outer dried layers and with
>> the glue in the middle after drying is a very secure, clean,
>> non-roll-able bond. All this without tissue cloth on the
>> sidewalls/rims a'la Ted Ernst (which wouldn't work anyway on road
>> bikes with rim brakes and such.)
>
> I remember Dave Tesch did just about the sloppiest glue jobs on his
> track wheels. He liked the red Clement glue, gobbed it on thick, pulled
> the tires on and left the goobers hanging all over. He figured cement on
> the rims didn't matter since track bikes don't have brakes anyway...
>
> --
> John (john@os2.dhs.org)
> Appleton WI USA