Because we often don't want a powder-coat finish. For me, at least, it's not a cost issue. Actually, automotive canned spray paint can look pretty nice if you do it right. As for the time issue, I value my time as much as anyone here, but I still paint bikes occasionally. I do it for the project, not so much for the result. Sometimes the journey is more important than arrival.
Steve Maas (sensing the beginning of yet another powder-coating thread in) Long Beach, California
David Toppin wrote:
> I understand why you guys want to do stuff yourself, but if you're going to
> use spray cans, which will never give you a particularly good job in the
> grand scheme of things, why not just powder coat. It is very cheap, I bet
> you can get a frame & fork sand blasted and powder coated for around 50
> bucks. It just doesn't seem worth it to me to go through the prep hassle to
> save that kind of money. Maybe I value my time too much!
>
>
> David Toppin
> dave@pelletizer.com
> http://www.pelletizer.com <------ see our complete, searchable inventory.
>
> The Pelletizer Group, Inc.
> 4 LaChance Street
> Gardner, MA 01440-2476
>
> (978) 669-0060
> (978) 669-0061 fax
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org
> [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] On Behalf Of scott mattern
> Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 2:50 PM
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]RE: Advice on enameling.
>
>
>
>>I have recently inherited a nice Holdsworth cycle (ID pending). I was
>>wondering if anyone had any experience in doing their own paintjobs?
>>I live in Central London, so pro frame sprayers are few and far
>>between, most seem to be up north, which makes it hard to choose
>>colours, and postage is pricey.
>>I have heard that when doing DIY frame re-paints, spraycans are
>>unfavourable, and buying a compressor/airbrush is out of my budget.
>>Has anyone tried using a tinned enamel (like humbrol model enamel)?
>>Would it be possible to acheive a good finish by applying lightly with
>>a brush and rubbing back? Obviously It would take many coats, but might
>>be worth it if it results in a good looking, durable finish.
>
>
>>If anyone could recommend types of paint and lacquer, give tips, or
>>suggest other ways of repainting, I would be very grateful.
>>Thanks again
>>Lester Lyons, London UK
>
>
> I have had very satisfactory results using spray cans on many projects in
> the past, it just takes good preparation, patience and the correct
> product...just like any good painter would tell you. If you Google "Spray
> Painting" you can find lot's of links with expert advice on the how and why
> and some really good tips.
> Here in the US I have had good luck using Krylon found in hardware stores or
> Dupli-Color which is automotive touch-up paint with a fantastic color
> assortment. Careful surface prep includes how you plan to treat the original
> paint; you can strip it off completely or sand it to give your primer
> something to grip on. Either way your primer coat should be blemish free and
> have as close to a perfect finish as you can get, your color coat will
> magnify any imperfections and ruin all your effort.
> When painting any object I find that if you work the difficult areas first
> and get them right, you can mask them off and paint the large areas next. On
> a bicycle frame these will be the seatstay/seatlug junction and the bottom
> bracket, once you have these primered to your satisfaction you can mask them
> off and continue on to the frame tubes and stays.
> When using any paint follow the manufactures directions, lot's of VERY light
> coats holding the can a consistent distance from the surface. You can
> experiment on a piece of plastic pipe to get the idea, holding the spray can
> closer gives a "wet" or smoother finish but a greater possibility of runs,
> holding further away makes runs or sags less likely but results in a
> "orange-peel" or rough surface. In any case patience is your greatest asset,
> with both primer and color coats allow to dry for six to twenty-four hours
> and wet sand using several grades of paper. Start with 400, step up to 600,
> then 800 and go through every grade until you finish with at least 1500 or
> 2000 grit. Remember, you have to remove every scratch from the previous
> paper before moving on to the next, there are no shortcuts in this process!
> Sand until you have a uniform surface finish, then go on to the next grade.
> Remember that any imperfection will only be magnified by the following coat,
> so it's step by step and take your time!
> Remember to paint in a well ventilated area, and use a cartridge style
> respirator that can be found in any good paint or hardware store.
> Once you have studied, practiced, stripped, sanded, primered, sanded again,
> more primer, sand, cuss, stripped the whole thing and started over for the
> fourth time the cost of a professional paint job will seem very reasonable.
> However with a great deal of time and patience you can have a very
> respectable finish, and the great satisfaction of being able to say you did
> it yourself.
> Not everyone can say that.
>
> Scott Mattern
> Hacienda heights, California
> Where I am gone outside to the pool and a cold adult beverage (hey, it's
> after 1 PM somewhere!!)
>
>
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