Dear Classic Rendezvousisimos, Does CR have a definitive part restoration guide, that would cover the f ollowing? If not, can someone offer some assistance, as I restore my twi n '58 (road and track) Ideor Asso parts?
Here is my novice approach/guide to all. I saw some postings involving v arious chemicals, a short whole back - would like to avoid chemicals if possible. My goal of course for chromed steel parts, is to avoid rechrom ing if possible, both to save cost and to preserve the original chrome. Comments? Suggestions?
Bill's "Art of Bicycle Part Restoration" a novice approach (please educa te me) Chromed Steel Parts (at various levels of rust and corrosion)
- light rust/corrosion, no damage to underlying steel (e.g. chrome pol ish) - medium rust/corrosion, no damage to underlying steel (e.g. navel jel ly & buffing wheel) - heavy rust/corrosion, no damage to underlying steel (e.g. navel jell y & buffing wheel) - very heavy rust/corrosion, w/ pitting/exposture of underlying steel (e.g. strip and rechrome) Aluminum Parts (at various levels of oxidation) - light oxidation (e.g. aluminum polish or buffing wheel) - medium oxidation (e.g. light steel wool and aluminum polish or buffi ng wheel) - heavy oxidation (e.g. medium steel wool and aluminum polish or buffi ng wheel) Unchromed Steel Parts (at various levels of rust and corrosion) - light rust/corrosion (e.g. light steel wool or buffing wheel) - medium rust/corrosion (e.g. light and medium steel wool and buffing wheel) - heavy rust/corrostion (e.g. deburring wheel-to get to unrusted steel , and then buffing wheel) Painted Steel or Aluminum parts (parts painted by past owners, that shou ld be unpainted) - light coat paint (e.g. buffing wheel) - heavy coat paint (e.g. deburring wheel and then buffing wheel)
Thanks in advance, Bill Ungar Torrance, CA
USA
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