Re: [CR]question on clear coating decals

(Example: Production Builders:LeJeune)

From: <"brianbaylis@juno.com">
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 17:31:54 GMT
To: ebfeinberg@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [CR]question on clear coating decals
cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org

Ed,

I'm not that experienced with powder coated finishes; but many of them are difficult to clear over because adhesion is difficult. There are ways to improve adhesion with adhesion/flex agents. Professional bike painters do not just coat the area around the decals. I would imagine it would be rather difficult to make the operation undetectable in relation to the rest of the "paint job". It would be much better to clear the whole frame if you find a clearcoat that will stick.

The other issue is compatibility of the clear and the decal ink. All kinds of reactions are possible. Therefore, guiding you to a successful result over the internet is impossible. Also how the clear is applied will matter; spraying as opposed to brushing or whatever.

Home "restorations" are risky. The professionals in the business, who have access to better decals that work specifically for top quality restorations and use methods that are known to work, will last a REALLY long time if properly cared for (which doesn't take much), and will end up looking "proper" to even the casual eye, are a much better approach to preserving the value and lifespan of the bike. Just the handling of the bike during the powdercoating process is not good for a quality bike. Also, the people who do the work don't know anything about how delicate these frames are compared to the junk they deal with most of the time. How about the chrome? No chrome? Another reason that powdercoating will not produce the best end results.

The bike is a rider? I'm not trying to make you feel bad or say what you did is "wrong"; but any quality bike should be ridden, especially after a nice restoration. When the bike is properly restored to the level it deserves (and Cinelli Mod. B certainly qualifies) it is a pleasure to ride and show to the world. It will have lasting value. If the bike is a "rider" because it has been punched and poorly repaired, is rusty as hell, has the wrong fork and a bunch of other maladies, then what the heck; go ahead and powdercoat. If the bike is intact then I believe it deserves better treatment and more respect.

If it weren't possible to do the job authentically and the bike was a POS, then why worry. But everything is available to restore the bike to authentic and original condition. I do not understand why one would not take the professional approach.

BTW, this isn't a sales pitch. I don't restore bikes anymore. But I still feel that these classics deserve the best treatment possible out of respect for our interests and the bikes themselves. If the barriers are financial, which I fully understand; then I recommend starting a savings fund (save lunch money, put your change in a jar, have all gifts to you be in the form of a contribution towards your project, etc.) until you can afford the professional job. Patience is the key. I feel that you spent some of the fund already and technically you will be further behind than if the bike was still ratty looking.

I have seen one or possibly 2 home restorations in my life that were well done enough to pass the test in my eye. It's very rare. None of them will be as durable as the top quality professional and none of them were powdercoated.

I hope I don't seem judgmental nor snobbish. I just don't like to see quality classics getting less than they deserve if it's only a matter of money. If it helps at all, I'm more than willing to help guide you towards a restorer to meet your needs and give advice as required. The pride and accomplishment once done would be well worth it, I promise you. If you don't plan to keep it for the rest of your life then never mind. But in that case it would be better to sell it in original condition and let the new owner take on the task.

I hope this is helpful. I don't mean to rain on your parade. I respect the fact that you cared enough for the bike to try to preserve it; but honestly, out of this, you make have in some respects done more harm than good. If there is any way I can help you, let me know.

Brian Baylis
La Mesa, CA


-- "Edward Feinberg" wrote:


Dear List Members,

I have a question about clear coating decals. I recently applied decals

to a Cinelli Model B restoration. I use the term restoration loosely. The

bike is a rider, and I finally re-"painted" with epoxy powder coat when

the total area of the chips exceeded the total area of remaining paint. I

have put on waterslide decals from H Lloyd Cycles of Penrith, UK, and want to

clear coat the area. H Lloyd says to use oil-based varnish (others will

ruin decals), but I am not sure how that works on Epoxy powder coat.

Anyone out there use any decal-specific clear coats or fixatives and have any advice?

Ed Feinberg

Newton, MA