[CR]Re: hub cone question

(Example: Framebuilders:Norman Taylor)

From: "Davis Jensen" <davisjensen1@earthlink.net>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 21:23:02 -0700
Subject: [CR]Re: hub cone question

Tom Hayes wrote: "Yesterday, after fitting a track bike with a rear wheel and tightening thelocknuts on the dropouts, I noticed that the wheels did not spin smoothlyand stopped abruptly. I surmised that tightening the locknutsl onto theframe squeezed or put too much pressure on the cones, forcing it against thebearings instead of riding smoothly.
   I used a different rear with the sameresult. The spacing in the rear drop-outs is about 114 mm, and the wheelsare approximately the same from locknut to locknut. As it is right now, theonly way I can get the wheel to spin smoothly is to tighten the locknutsinto a position where, when riding the bike, I would for sure pull the rearwheel forward or make it go into the chainstays. Anyone have experience with such a problem and might know a ready solution?Both wheels have cup and cone bearings." Tom, I adjust cup & cone bearings in the following fashion to avoid this problem. Add a heavy washer between the lock nuts and the outer nuts with the wheel out of the frame. Tighten the outer nuts to the same tightness you use in the frame, and feel the bearings for freeplay/drag. Adjust as necessary. It helps if your locknuts are always kept to a higher torque than the outer nuts, so the outer nuts can't over come the preload. By using the washers, you can spin the axle and get a sensitive touch. If the wheel is in the frame, you lose the sensitivity due to the greater leverage/inertia of the rim. You can do the same with a quick release hub, but the washers should be close to the same thickness as the drop outs to keep the tension in the quick release similar to when they are in the frame. If you have some loose dropouts, they would work great. Davis JensenLomita, CA USA