Fwd: Re: [CR]Prewar Metallurgy


Example: Component Manufacturers

Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 13:01:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Art Link <artlink@columnssanantonio.com>
Subject: Fwd: Re: [CR]Prewar Metallurgy
To: classic rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>


When I recently took my cracked 1930's Maino aluminum chainwheel to be welded by a guy who makes his living repairing aircraft parts,he was amazed at the high quality and hardness of the alloy(after running several tests) and chose a high tensile strength modern rod.Check your Yellow Pages for certified aluminum welders that work near the local airport. Art Link,San Antonio,TX,USA

Kurt Sperry <haxixe@gmail.com> wrote: Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 12:18:05 -0700 From: "Kurt Sperry" <haxixe@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [CR]Prewar Metallurgy CC: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org

Scrap is probably the best and safest option. Don't assume that all pre-War Al alloys are in any way inferior to modern ones. Rolls-Royce had developed the RR-series alloys aka hiduminiums for the pistons of their famed aero engines like the Merlin by the late '30s, and those alloys are still pretty much state-of-the-art in their mechanical properties in spite of what marketers would have you believe.

Kurt Sperry Bellingham WA USA

On 11/1/07, Philcycles@aol.com
   wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 11/1/07 10:38:57 AM, db@h3odesign.com writes:
> > I just acquired a prewar Ambrosio aluminum stem. It has a crack that I
> > will
> > need to repair so I can use the stem. When welding, there are different
> > rods for different types of aluminum alloys. Does anyone know what mode
> rn
> > aluminum (1100, 3003, 6061, etc.) would be compatible with a prewar cast
> > aluminum? Or are there any you can eliminate? My guess would be more
> of a
> > 3003 (general purpose) over a 6061 (high strength, stiff). Thank you.
> > Best regards,
> >
> > David Beck
> >
> > Crystal Lake, IL USA
> >
>
> Scrap.
> Phil Brown
> Untrusting in San Rafael, Calif.