if you do the oven cleaner trick, you will most likely
want to polish the part. i think without polishing you
will have a very dull, almost corroded look.
it's real easy once you get the clear off but the part
won't look original. i reserve removing clear and
polishing for parts that have bad scratches in the
clear.
this one is polished.
http://flickr.com/
Jeff Piwonka
Austin, Texas, usa
> John Waner wrote:
> >From what I have been told it is very easy to
> remove the anodizing with oven cleaner.
>
> John,
> I've heard this too, though I'll add that I've
> also heard you need to be careful if you want to
> remove the anodizing while leaving the metal
> unharmed. In any case, keep in mind that a
> color-anodized part with the anodizing removed is
> not the same as a clear/silver/pearl anodized part
> with the finish intact. All but the earliest silver
> Campy cranks were anodized. Without anodizing they
> will corrode.
>
> Dale Brown wrote:
>
> Gold, red, blue, green and ?
>
> The 1982 catalog lists small and large flange hubs
> and cranksets in gold, blue, and silver, and pedals
> in gold, blue and black. Somehow red seems
> familiar, however, but not green.
>
> In any case, the BMX part that I'd really like to
> own would be the pedal, in black. They'd be stealth
> cool on my brakeless freestyle fixie.... well, no,
> but they'd be cool on a single speed grocery bike,
> that's for sure. The interesting thing about the
> BMX pedal is that the rivets appear not to be
> symmetrical around the centerline of the cage. I
> think Campy must have used the normal Record/SL/SR
> body, which is not symmetrical. Suntour, in
> contrast, made a BMX pedal that had a unique body,
> even though mechanically similar to the Superbe and
> later XC offerings. In fact, I think the Suntour
> BMX pedal predates all the similar pedals from
> Suntour and was based on an American pedal, perhaps
> the Rochester brand... or Weyless...and those may
> have started as road pedals, so it all comes full
> circle.
>
> Tom Dalton
>
>
>
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