Sheldon,
Looking at expanding my dropout spacing none, 0.5mm, 2.5mm, 5mm, or 6mm, is there an omibus rear axle spacer package I could get when getting the ball bearings also from you at the same time? I may already have a 126mm rear quick release as evidenced by the rear axle shifting to an angle of repose: which the tire was in between narrow range of rear forks and it didn't move, so I didn't worry about it. And you yourself said a too-large quick release range may be why rear tire was shifting, when asked earlier (like spacers were never properly put in by my friends LBS when Suntour freewheel was installed).
It doesn't matter what it is now necessarilly since I will align my rear forks later, and it may change upon inspection. I am (always) just trying to eliminate paying GW gas tax on excessive and needless shipping charges. But maybe it is a down week no matter what and I just have to wait and see what I need spacing wise after the highly variable mechanical interfaces are seated (i.e. - the spacers may be innordinately expensive per smallest incremental measures only). I'm not really sure exactly how to add spacers but now know enough to give it a shot.
And please suggest any other items I will need from you so can get them all at once. I now have the parts to replace:
IRD 13-24 5 sp freewheel - Campy Centaur rd - 9 sp pulleys - SRAM 991 chain - wet/dry chain oil - Suntour Power ratchet shifters - der housing/cables/stops - 2 Sturmey Archer Wheel clamps for der cable turns (I may get one more -?) - marine wheel bearing grease - and will get ball bearings from you (on next order).
So... in summary: Spacers? Any advice on S-A wheel clamps (with shifters mounted on handlebars, thinking of cables stops top and bottom where DT shifters are at now and possibly S-A wheel clamps at bottom of Seat Post lug and bottom of Down Tube lug for front and rear derailleur)? Any expendable hardware per freewheel/bearing installation I am not aware of or listed above? Or anything else to make this work with what I currently have already purchased.
I hope I'm getting close :-)
Thanks Gratefully, Phil Bailey Sarasota, FL
On 2/8/07, Sheldon Brown <CaptBike@sheldonbrown.com> wrote:
>
> At 6:17 PM -0500 2/8/07, philip bailey wrote:
> >Sheldon,
> >
> >Wow, Fantastic. I checked on your site earlier, but I got lost.
> >Everything I ever wanted to know about balls.
> >
> >Now that's settled, what about the other two edges?
> >
> >1. If the wheel spins freely, are the cones and hub surfaces likely
> >all right unless gouging is noted in surfaces?
> >
>
> Yes.
>
> >Balls, especially if softer, is a no brainer to replace. And
> >evidently if people recommend replacing balls every lube change,
> >then they must be softer metal than the hub and cone surfaces:
> >because I missed anyone suggesting replace cones or hubs every wheel
> >lube, so it must be an anomaly or cause for repair from other
> >symptoms (?).
> >
> Bearing balls are super hard. I recommend replacing them because
> they're cheap and easy to replace, unlike cones and cups, and because
> it's hard to know if you have really got them clean, since you can't
> know if you've seen every side of every ball.
>
>
> >2. Is there anyway to help seal bearings when changing, with special
> >tape or something? I remember when my LBS converted my BB to
> >Ultegra, he said he sealed it so not sure what exactly took place.
>
> Ultegra bbs are sealed at the factory.
>
> >It works great whatever he did though, but that may just be normal
> >Ultegra BB product installation.
> >
> >3. And would it be best just to drop by LBS to get freewheel removed
> >since tools for a one time shot seems needless.
>
> If it is really going to be a one-shot, yes. Just bring the wheel to
> the shop, not the whole bike.
>
> All the best,
>
> Sheldon
>
> >
> >
> >I appreciate the guidance.
> >
> >
> >Thanks!!!
> >Phil Bailey
> >Sarasota, FL
> >
> >
> >
> >On 2/8/07, Sheldon Brown
> ><<mailto:CaptBike@sheldonbrown.com>CaptBike@sheldonbrown.com> wrote:
> >
> >philip bailey wrote:
> >>
> >>I am going to replace Suntour freewheel with IRD 13-24 5 speed
> freewheel,
> >>and thought this might be good time to replace wheel ball bearings and
> lube
> >>wheels, to propel my big self easier (every little bit helps).
> >>
> >>
> >>1. Is there any reason to do it if the wheels seem to spin fine now,
> >>regardless of time or miles since greased?
> >
> >You can't necessarily tell on the bike. See:
> ><http://sheldonbrown.com/cones>http://sheldonbrown.com/cones
> >
> >>
> >>2. I don't suppose there is any way to tell ball diameter until you get
> the
> >>wheel axle out?
> >
> >Front 10 x 3/16" each side.
> >
> >Rear 9 x 1/4" each side.
> >>
> >>3. What material would be best for ball bearings, SS 302?
> >
> >Hardened steel, grade 25.
> >
> >See: http://sheldonbrown.com/
> >http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/hub-parts.html#bearings
> >
> >>4. Just use standard auto 'green' grease?
> >
> >That's fine.
> >
> >Sheldon "Green Grease" Brown
> >+----------------------------------------+
> >| When I am grown to man's estate |
> >| I shall be very proud and great, |
> >| And tell the other girls and boys |
> >| Not to meddle with my toys. |
> >| -R. L. Stevenson |
> >+----------------------------------------+
> >--
> >Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
> > Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
> > <http://harriscyclery.com>http://harriscyclery.com
> > Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
> > <http://captainbike.com>http://captainbike.com
> >Useful articles about bicycles and cycling
> > <http://sheldonbrown.com>http://sheldonbrown.com
>
>
> --
> Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
> Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
> http://harriscyclery.com
> Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
> http://captainbike.com
> Useful articles about bicycles and cycling
> http://sheldonbrown.com