I've had a couple of Stronglight cranks seize up on me. In both cases this occurred when I first tried to remove the cranks after purchasing an old used bike, so it is possible that the cranks had not be removed for many years, if ever. It was mostly these experiences that convinced me to very lightly lube the tapers. It would seem to me that lubing the tapers, at least heavily lubing them, might tend to pull them on further, but some have disputed that here - Sheldon perhaps? I believe the argument was that the forces of tightening the crank were such that the lubrication would make little difference. And that enlarging the hole was due to simply overtightening, lube or no lube. CR opinion is obviously far from unanimous, but since I use a lot of Stronglight cranks, I compromise by lubing the tapers, but only very lightly.
Regards,
Jerry Moos Big Spring, TX
oroboyz@aol.com wrote:
Some one wrote off list:
<>
The assumption is that the cranks would get removed yearly or so for repacking... and in that situation, seizing doesn't occur because not enough time for galvanic action to work sufficiently for that to happen.
Actually I have never seen that happen to Stronglight or any other alloy cranks, but I believe it does, but just after years & years of no preventive maintenance.
The reality is, that fair weather riders probably do not over haul their bbs nearly so frequently, so? that a smidgen of lube would not cause any "draw on" damage either!
FWIW, I HAVE personally seen quite a number of Campy cranks with damage to their tapers & this going on too far (no myth!)
Dale Brown cycles de ORO, Inc. 1410 Mill Street Greensboro, North Carolina 27408 USA 336.274.5959 http://www.cyclesdeoro.com http://www.classicrendezvous.com
-----Original Message----- From: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos To: oroboyz@aol.com Sent: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 11:28 am Subject: Re: [CR] "Autoshifting" and bb "flats"
So then what do you do to prevent Stronglight cranks seizing onto the axle?? Seems that any anti-seize compound would have the same effect as grease in allegedly pulling the crank further onto the tapers.
?
Regards,
?
Jerry Moos
?
oroboyz@aol.com wrote:
I think all these subjects have been covered multiple times on this forum, but nonetheless I am feeling chatty and the wisdom (?) of my 35 years in the biz, so I will go at it again.
Auto-shifting (slipping) of Campag DT shifters:
- Often, through the brazing process, brazed on bosses have a bit of brass /silver inside that prevent the attachment/tightening screw from completely tightening. Often you can slightly shorten? that screw and affect more complete control over the tightening , and then avoid slipping ("auto-shifting")
- Internally, some lubrication is a good thing so the components slide against each other, but the later plastic washers especially seem to compress too much, allowing too much slipping & loss of control. We have had success roughing up those washers with a medium file, allowing more control? in adjustment.
Lubricating bottom bracket spindle "flats"
-? I believe that lubricating those flats is a mistake. Reasoning being that the "flats" are actually tapers; each time the cranks are removed and then re-installed, the cranks tend to be drawn up the ramps of those tapers, the softer aluminum alloy of the cranks is then compressed through all that applied force, and the cranks go further inboard each time. Those who ride a lot in all weather (racers of yore), after multiple rebuilds, end up having cranks in danger of touching their bike frame!
- The friction of the unlubricated cranks-on-bb-tapers works great in keeping things properly in place. (Listen and heed Campagnolo's instructions!)
Dale
Dale Brown cycles de ORO, Inc. 1410 Mill Street Greensboro, North Carolina 27408 USA 336.274.5959 http://www.cyclesdeoro.com http://www.classicrendezvous.com
-----Original Message----- From: Donald Gillies To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Cc: chuckschmidt@earthlink.net Sent: Sun, 5 Aug 2007 4:39 am Subject: Re: [CR]Autoshifting
Chuck WD-40 ("Water Displacement, 40th try") was invented right here in san diego by a solvent company, who set out to invent a line of "rust prevention solvents and degreasers."
If WD-40 is not a degreaser, then you'd better send a letter to the WD-40 company and let them know it, because they must be mistaken on their website where they describe the invention of their own product:
http://www.wd40.com/
They are lucky to have an expert like you to straighten them out in regards to their company history ... :-) :-)
The internals of earlier campagnolo N.R. shifters include a brass domed washer for lubrication. You must not lube either side of this washer, nor lub the wingnut, or it will self-loosen as you shift. You need to remove all grease and lube from these parts, and I recommend a degreaser such as WD-40 to accomplish this task. Ooops, there I go again.
Chuck is right, i believe, that you _can_ lubricate between the lever and the boss, but this is the only place you can lubricate in these shifters, and be careful not get grease anywhere else.
- Don Gillies San Diego, CA
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