Nope, I'm not talking about Naval Jelly.
Jay Sexton Sebastopol, CA
Michael Hendricks wrote:
> Jay,
> I think you're talking about "Naval Jelly" which is great stuff for
> heavy rust. My only complaint about it is that it's pretty toxic. As
> for light rust, I use really fine steel wool "0000" or I buy those
> scratchless pads that you find in the grocery store (white on one side
> sponge on the other" and a little solution of Simple Green. Works for me!
>
> Mike Hendricks
> San Jose, Ca.
>
> */Jay Sexton <jvs@sonic.net>/* wrote:
>
> Sasha, why don't you try that stuff that you can apply directly to
> rust which neutralizes it and at the same time preps it for an
> overcoat of paint? Don't know the name, but I have heard about it
> from numerous people I know. I think it might be available from
> the obvious paint stores, hardware stores and auto parts stores. I
> think it's marketed to car devotees.
>
> Jay Sexton
> Sebastopol, CA
>
>
>
> From: "sasha eysymontt"
> To: "Classic Rendezvous"
> Subject: [CR]removing light surface rust?
> Message-ID:
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>
> Hey all,
>
> I've got a KOF 3Rensho frame that exhibits a tiny amount of
> surface rust on
> the paint -- no bubbling, barely any roughness. Is there any sort
> of mild
> solution I could use to try to remove it and then re-clearcoat the
> spots
> without damaging the surrounding paint? Is oxalic acid (good for mild
> chrome rust, I know) or a thin solution of Barkeeper's Friend
> going to be
> tough on the rust without damaging the paint?
>
> Suggestions are appreciated!
>
> Obligatory lug porn shot:
> http://boxwood.subtle.org/
> serious shorelining!
>
> -s
>
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>
>
>
> Michael Hendricks
>
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