OK. I am working my ass off today probably until evening, but coem and show Liz around and I will pop out for a while. Cant wait to see you.
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Homemade tools in your toolbox - leather toe straps (Charles T. Young) 2. Cuevas bike (george chan) 3. Stucchi 1940-50 ??? - request for help (Greg S) 4. Re: homegrown tools (john strizek) 5. Re: Roll over, Jack (Peter Jourdain) 6. Re: homegrown tools (Steven M. Johnson) 7. Want to Trade Suntour Superbe 50T Track Ring for Road (Jerome & Elizabeth Moos) 8. RE: Homemade tools in your toolbox - leather toe straps (devotion finesse) 9. Re: home-made tools. (Steve Maas) 10. WTB - Sturmey Archer wing nuts 11. Favorite hand made tools (Bianca Pratorius) 12. Re: Favorite hand made tools (Andrew Bohlmann) 13. The earliest alloy parts? (Dr. Paul Williams) 14. Helicomatic questions (Jerome & Elizabeth Moos) 15. Re: Helicomatic questions (Jerome & Elizabeth Moos)
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 19:28:20 -0500 From: "Charles T. Young" To: Subject: Re: [CR]Homemade tools in your toolbox - leather toe straps Message-ID: <000e01c85a32$31889b40$0a00a8c0@corp.rfweston.com> References: <478FF006.8030804@xtra.co.nz> Content-Type: text/plain;format=flowed;charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=response MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 1
Repurposed leather toe straps! Uses include but are not limited to:
(1) Substitute for a third hand tool when cabling up brakesets and much more adjustable. (2) To strap the front wheel to the downtube when a bike is on the stand to prevent it from slapping around and having the handlebar ding the top tube.
A handy addition to any well-stocked tool box / workbench / stand and provides something useful to do with those singletons that seem to show up when their mates die.
Other than strapping tubulars beneath a saddle, what bike-related tasks do you folks do with them?
Charlie Young Honey Brook, PA USA
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 17:04:21 -0800 (PST) From: george chan
To: Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]Cuevas bike Message-ID: <455112.24152.qm@web34610.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Precedence: list Message: 2
Gents: I have a 1980 Cuevas that suffered from automatic shift syndrome. In any gear larger than a 70 inch it would shift onto a smaller rear cog which always made climbing or sprinting an adventure. Sometime during the year that I actually rode it, the right chainstay cracked but even after Cuevas repaired it, it was still a really soft, whippy ride. cheers, George Chan Skokie, Il. USA
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 12:25:59 +1100 From: "Greg S" To: Subject: [CR]Stucchi 1940-50 ??? - request for help Message-ID: <012f01c85a3a$3fc99e40$0201010a@sn2046777123> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 3
Riky,
There are a few differences between your Cambio bike and my mid 40s
Stucchi that I can see judging by the photos. Fender eyelets and a more
relaxed geometry on your bike are obvious. Fork crown is slightly
different, head lugs totally different but seat lugs/group appears the
same. The relaxed geometry in comparison with my Stucchi helps me
confirm the aspirations of the Stucchi company as it created only a
limited amount of racing bikes and fielded teams in the late 40s in
international events such as the TDF. Stucchi were known as a
manufacturer of high quality town bikes and not really recognised as
builders of racing bikes.
I have said this before, these Stucchis are absolutely brilliant
handling bikes with as much response and feedback as an early 80s
Mexico.
My yellow Stucchi
http://www.flickr.com/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 17:46:01 -0800 (PST) From: john strizek To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]Re: homegrown tools Message-ID: <132639.4384.qm@web50401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Precedence: list Message: 4
I too have occasion to adapt other tools to bike use and to make or alter other tools. Here are a couple of them.
1. Chain third hand. When "breaking" a chain I use a piece of an old spoke bent in an elongated C shape on its back. Starting with a spoke piece about 8" long with one inch "hooks" bent length about 6 inches long after being bent. This is hooked through a link of the chain on either side of the break to keep the chain open ends close together without tension. The reason is to allow using the chain tool, without also trying to grow another hand, or without all my attention on keeping the chair together while I rejoin it. Essentially a third hand for a chain. I am relatively sure most people know about doing this. I toss it in anyway.
2. Crankset third hand: This is for removing the fixed cup with the spindle still in. It holds the wrench in place so you can use a hammer when that is a necessity. I use 2 large fender washers because they are thin(which is an automotive type washer originally; it has a much smaller hole that the outside of the washer would usually have). The outside diameter of the washer must be larger than the cup diameter or at least as large as the BB, the holes must be large enough for the spindle to fit through. The large washers are spot welded, epoxied, taped, or whatever you wish to use to keep it attached to a large nut. The large nut must also be large enough inside diameter for the spindle to fit through. On the opposite side of the nut from the first washers attach two smaller washers, Two because of their thinness. The outside diameter at least as large as the outside diameter of the nut. The hole diameter large enough for a BB crank bolt to fit through. I do not use the crank bolt however it is usually not long enough. I get a replacement bolt of same diameter and threading but about 1/2" or 3 cm longer than the crank bolt. How to use: The wrench to remove the fixed cup is put in place as if you were going to remove the cup. The wrench is difficult to keep in place when it is necessary to use a hammer to persuade the cup to turn. The nut-washers assembly is place over the spindle with the large washers "clamping" the wrench against the edge of the BB. The bolt is put through the small washer hole and is screwed into the end of the spindle. It does not require anything beyond finger tightening. You will have a sandwich of; Bottom Bracket-removal wrench-large washer(s)-large nut-smaller washers and bolt holding all of this on top the spindle. The wrench may then have a hammer applied to it without fear of it flying and injuring someone or flying and injuring a lovely painted surface.
3. fixed cup remover: I use this when the spindle has been removed. I use a coarse thread bolt large enough to barely fit through the spindle hole. I use a small washer on either side of the cup. A nut for the bolt is then screwed on the nut is in the bottom bracket, the bolt head outside the bottom bracket. A socket wrench to fit the bolt head is used with a large breaker bar or long ratchet arm. The bolt is then tightened down and because the cup is left hand threaded, the bolt nut combination tightens down and as you turn the ratchet or breaker clockwise to tighten the bolt the cup is loosened. I have always feared breaking a cup but I not broken one as yet. I prefer this to the wrench third hand. Hammers can be dangerous.
4. Tire Tools: I have used motorcycle tire irons for years to remove and replace tires. They are quite a bit longer than the little irons in a road repair kit. they do not have the spoke hooks but this has never been a problem for me.
5. VAR lockring tool: I have two of these and use the extra one for removing and replacing brass pop-up sprinklers in my yard. They are an expensive sprinkler tool, but I have had them forever and they were cheaper then.
6. I use medical forceps for placing loose balls when servicing bearings. I prefer the curved ones of 6" to 8".
7. I use never-seize when putting threaded object together. It is the brand name for an anti seize compound. I find metals exposed to the elements sometimes try to become one single piece. It is probably not suitable as a lubricant.
8. Seals: I have used O-rings for seals where I felt I needed a bit more weather exclusion on old non-sealed rotating bike parts.
I am no rocket scientist and it is highly likely you already have a way of doing what you need to do on your bike. I have just had a few necessities where I had more time than money or the repair always needs to done when no shop is open.
John Strizek Sacratomato California USA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 17:47:38 -0800 (PST) From: Peter Jourdain
To: "David G. White" , beandk@rcn.com Cc: "CR List \(E-mail\)" Subject: Re: [CR]Roll over, Jack Message-ID: <35557.7387.qm@web32903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: <47913F7A.2000702@burlingtontelecom.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Precedence: list Message: 5
Hi, All---
Those tires are Grant Petersen's (Rivendell) patented "Speedblend" tires which make "pretty" colors when spinning round...
Link------------[top right-hand picture]:
http://www.rivbike.com/
Peter Jourdain Whitewater, Wisconsin US of A
--- "David G. White"
wrote:
> First time I've ever seen such a garish Jack Taylor!
> Ouch!
>
> David -- JT Fan -- White
> Burlington, VT
>
>
>
>
>
> David Bean wrote:
> > I was wondering what might be on offer on ebay for
> even more than the $3500
> > Pog. How 'bout this Jack Taylor? Gotta dig thos
> tyres! I wonder what the
> > Taylors would have thought? Item # 280192970629
> >
> > David Bean
> > Arlington, MA
> > beandk at are-see-enn dot com
> > _______________________________________________
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> > Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> >
>
http://www.bikelist.org/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 02:18:23 GMT From: "Steven M. Johnson" To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]Re: homegrown tools Message-ID: <20080118.201823.9905.0@webmail20.vgs.untd.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 6
I have block of oak wood about 4" x 5" x 12" with a V notch cut into one end taken from an old barn. I have used it since the early 70s to remov e and set cotter pins on cottered cranks.
Steven Johnson, Shiloh, IL
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 18:46:08 -0800 (PST) From: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]Want to Trade Suntour Superbe 50T Track Ring for Road Message-ID: <413513.96324.qm@web82209.mail.mud.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: <35557.7387.qm@web32903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Precedence: list Message: 7
Received today this Suntour 50T ring I bought on eBay.
It was described as a road ring, but is actually track. Anyone interested in trading a 50T or 49T Superbe road ring for 50T track? Will consider other marque rings in 50 or 49T.
Regards,
Jerry Moos
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 23:21:53 -0500 From: devotion finesse To: "Charles T. Young" ,
Subject: RE: [CR]Homemade tools in your toolbox - leather toe straps Message-ID: In-Reply-To: <000e01c85a32$31889b40$0a00a8c0@corp.rfweston.com> References: <478FF006.8030804@xtra.co.nz> <000e01c85a32$31889b40$0a00a8c0@corp.rfweston.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 8
I use 'em to secure the front and rear wheels to the tracks on my car's roo f rack. I also keep 'em around my piles of chainrings and track cogs. I also attach a spare wheelset to my back pack with 'em if I am riding out to the velodrome in Queens.
Matthew Bowne Brooklyn, New York
----------------------------------------
> From: youngc@ptd.net
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Homemade tools in your toolbox - leather toe straps
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 19:28:20 -0500
>
> Repurposed leather toe straps! Uses include but are not limited to:
>
> (1) Substitute for a third hand tool when cabling up brakesets and much m
ore
> adjustable.
> (2) To strap the front wheel to the downtube when a bike is on the stand
to
> prevent it from slapping around and having the handlebar ding the top tub
e.
>
> A handy addition to any well-stocked tool box / workbench / stand and
> provides something useful to do with those singletons that seem to show u
p
> when their mates die.
>
> Other than strapping tubulars beneath a saddle, what bike-related tasks d
o
> you folks do with them?
>
> Charlie Young
> Honey Brook, PA
> USA
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Classicrendezvous mailing list
> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> http://www.bikelist.org/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 22:33:47 -0800 From: Steve Maas To: Classic Rendezvous Subject: Re: [CR]home-made tools. Message-ID: <479199CB.6090000@nonlintec.com> In-Reply-To: <47913EF2.3080806@verizon.net> References: <47913EF2.3080806@verizon.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 9
Headset press, chainring bolt tool, and a crank remover for the very odd-sized (23.35x1 mm) Stronglight cranks
http://www.nonlintec.com/
http://www.nonlintec.com/
Steve Maas Long Beach, California ------------------------------
Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 01:36:11 EST From: RDF1249@aol.com To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]WTB - Sturmey Archer wing nuts Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 10
If anyone has a nice pair of Sturmey Archer rear wing nuts languishing in their parts stash with no plans for them, I would be happy to swap you something or pay you for them. For a worthy project, my nicely restored 1938 Carpenter with its alloy shell AM hub. Pics will be posted when I get it all together.
thanks!
Bob Freeman Elliott Bay Bicycles 2116 Western Ave Seattle, WA 98121 206-441-8144 Home of Davidson Handbuilt Bicycles
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 10:27:04 -0500 From: Bianca Pratorius To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]Favorite hand made tools Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v624) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 11
My favorite hand made tool is the Sheldon Brown fixed cup remover. It is basically a big bolt with a bunch of fender washers and a huge nut at the other end. The washers are just big enough so that it gets a good grip on the fixed cup but not so big that the polished bearing surfaces get touched. Simple... you just grab one side with a big socket wrench and one good push - bang off it comes. Brilliant! Thanks Sheldon. I also use a cut rubber inner tube to hold the front wheel straight when I have the bike on the stand. It ties the downtube to the rim... no marring of paint either. I have two short bolts I attach to my rear dropouts. I set them so the tips almost touch and then I can judge if the dropouts are parallel. I have a dishing tool I made from plywood. It has a mark on it so that I can take a steel ruler and measure from the mark to the axle face to judge for dish. It's just as accurate for dishing as a Park tool but way cooler.
Garth Libre In Miami Fl USA
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 08:46:54 -0700 From: "Andrew Bohlmann" To: , "Bianca Pratorius" Subject: Re: [CR]Favorite hand made tools Message-ID: <000401c85ab2$84f534c0$2a1035ce@hal> References: Content-Type: text/plain;format=flowed;charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=response MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 12
I have a tool from the early '80's. I had it made by a Ames, IA machinist for a case of Coor's which was brought back from Colorado. By the way, nobody drinks Coor's out here in Colorado....Fat Tire rules!
I saw a home made one while I was a US National team Mechanic at a International 12-day stage in Baja California in 1980. Bill Woodul was our team director and we had 6 riders, an assistant from Miami (a Cuban who fled Cuba...this is another cycling story itself), and myself.
One of the Eastern Euro mechanics had a tool that pushed big flat spots on a
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