Just today I had to remove two freewheels the hard way. One was an old Regina on a old two piece campy hub. I have bought the hubset off ebay really cheap since the seller did obviously not know it's value and sold it for 15,00 \u20ac BIN price. No thinking about that purchase. The only problem was the still attached freewheel. I ended up visiting a friends machine shop where we welded the freewheelbody together and to a fitting metalbar and then clamping the hubflange in a lathe. With an huge set of tube pliers we then were able to loosen it. The other one was easier, I took apart the freewheel body after I had learned that the two last cogs werereverse threaded. Then we were able to clamp it in a three prong machinists vise and voila. On this one the rimm was still attached. Regards
Michael Schmid Oberammergau Germany Tel.: +49 8821 798790 Fax.:+49 8821 798791 mail: schmid@zunterer.com http://www.zunterer.com
-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----- Von: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] Im Auftrag von Jerome & Elizabeth Moos Gesendet: Samstag, 26. April 2008 22:19 An: Jay S; classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Betreff: Re: [CR]regina freewheel question
Yes, on old Regina at least the inner cog, and maybe the inner two, are reverse threaded, and I think thread on from the inside. That's why I hate rebuilding them.
Once you've well and truly stripped the notches, the standard procedure is to remove the outer FW body. The outer cover plate has some indentations where you can use a punch the unscrew the plate, which holds the outer body with the cogs on. You can then remove the outer body. At this point all the bearings will fall out, so best have a pan or something to catch them. You can the clamp the inner FW body in a bench vise and turn the wheel to remove the FW. The inner body will be ruined, but with stripped notches it was worthless anyway. You can try to use the outer body on a good inner, which requires getting the bearings to stay in place while you slide the body on. Or you can remove the cogs from the outer body to use on another FW. This is not fun, but it illustrates why most newer FW's are splined instead of notched.
Regards,
Jerry Moos Big Spring, Texas, USA
Jay S <jvs@sonic.net> wrote: Hello group,
Here is my dilemma. I've managed to get the first three cogs off a five speed Regina Oro freewheel, but not the last two. Are the last two cogs reverse threaded? Couldn't find the info I need in the archives; maybe I searched wrong, but I don't have unlimited time to sit at the computer.
The real problem is that despite all my careful efforts, the notches in the freewheel body peeled away like butter while attempting the remove it from a Campy hub. I thought that removing the cogs would allow me better access to the freewheel body, thus giving me another option for removal. I'm open to any tips or suggestions as to how to get the damm thing off. First time ever I have not been able to remove a freewheel. argghhh!
Thanks for any help.
Jay Sexton
Sebastopol, CA