> Rust and corrosion are never "passive" but are
always progressive.
Either my parents or Mark Twain warned me to remain suspicious of statements containing the words "always" and "never." I would suggest in this case that there is ample evidence that this one is incorrect. A coat of iron oxide can indeed help protect underlying iron (or steel) from rusting further, especially if it is compacted (burnished) or oiled. As with many metallic oxides/carbonates, iron rust is more stable than pure iron... while it may not have the extreme hardness of alumina oxide (anodizing is probably the best example of a corroded surface that is both stable and protective), or the beauty of bronze patina, it actually does have its benefits and under certain conditions can offer some protection without progressing. The shiny brownish-black coating on an old hammer head or chisel blade is nothing more than a burnished rusted surface, the result of a balance between exposure to air and some polishing from use. If kept dry such an object will remain far more stable over time than if that coating was removed.
The idea that a protective surface coat of iron oxide could prevent deeper oxidation has been successfully exploited even in steel that is exposed to weather. Corten is a "weathering steel" roofing material used mostly in industrial and commercial construction and has also found some acceptance in residential use. Over a period of time the untreated surface rusts to a deep brown which then stabilizes and will last for years so long as it is installed properly (i.e., properly sealed at joints, no areas that collect pools of water, etc.).
If a bike is to be ridden in all kinds of weather and the owner is not going to be attentive to things like drying it after a ride, or he leaves it in a garage where there are drastic changes in moisture and temperature every time someone opens the door, then yes it would be a good idea to remove any rust spots and cover the areas with touchup paint. But in the case of a rare vintage bike that is carefully ridden and properly stored, one whose attentive owner prefers to keep it as it was found, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a few coats or wax, or the oil-and-toothbrush method, to stabilize small rusted areas.
>> When the rust/ "originality" ratio reaches a
certain low point it's time to call your painter-
otherwise the "originality" factor will fall quite low.
...as opposed to disappearing completely once it is repainted?
>> Incidently, when does "originality" disappear?
Allowing a bike to deteriorate is simply an example
of poor stewardship-especially reprehensible if
the bike is an important one.
George, most of the damage seen on many of these old bikes occurred during years of poor or nonexistant care. I would suggest that we need to listen to the testaments of several earlier posters (who have been collecting bikes longer than either of us) when they say that they have seen no evidence that this sort of damage progresses further once it has been halted by some sort of treatment (oil, wax, etc.) and properly cared for afterwards.
Bob Hovey
Columbus, GA USA
http://bhovey.com/
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