Re: [CR]Re: wheels, tension, nipples, and the A word...

(Example: Racing:Roger de Vlaeminck)

Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 18:12:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: "devon warner" <crabulux@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [CR]Re: wheels, tension, nipples, and the A word...
To: Classic Rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
In-Reply-To: <1222808911.48e2954f2759d@www.mrrabbit.net>


I once saw a wheel builder deep in the basement of a bike shop doing what l ooked like a secret method to me: dipping the spoke threads into latex pain t. he said it made a well preserved, water proof bond and would never resu lt in a siezed up spoke. never saw or heard of anyone doing this before. anyone else hear of any such?

devon warner
san francisco, USA


--- On Tue, 9/30/08, mrrabbit@mrrabbit.net wrote:


> From: mrrabbit@mrrabbit.net <mrrabbit@mrrabbit.net>

\r?\n> Subject: [CR]Re: wheels, tension, nipples, and the A word...

\r?\n> To: tom_s_dalton@yahoo.com

\r?\n> Cc: "Classic Rendezvous" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>

\r?\n> Date: Tuesday, September 30, 2008, 2:08 PM

\r?\n> Personally, I don't have a problem with people using

\r?\n> Spoke Prep per se...

\r?\n>

\r?\n> ...I have a problem with those who use it to hide inferior

\r?\n> work. I see too

\r?\n> much of that.

\r?\n>

\r?\n> Also keep in mind that saying oil doesn't belong on

\r?\n> spoke threads is like

\r?\n> saying that a Phil Wood spoke machine should be operated

\r?\n> dry.

\r?\n>

\r?\n> Thousands of wheel builders before me for the past 100

\r?\n> years have used oil on

\r?\n> their spoke threads...what suddenly in the past year has

\r?\n> determined that to be

\r?\n> FATAL?

\r?\n>

\r?\n> When did butter become deadly - and margerine the no-fault

\r?\n> replacement?

\r?\n>

\r?\n> Kids for thousands of years were let loose to play, scrape

\r?\n> a knee, earn a

\r?\n> bruise or two...should I now tell everyone to keep their

\r?\n> kids in cages like

\r?\n> rats?

\r?\n>

\r?\n> Seriously...pressing emergency right-this-instant paradigm

\r?\n> shifting

\r?\n> fundamentals please...or just admit to being anal about a

\r?\n> personal choice.

\r?\n>

\r?\n> I use the nipple click and response torque as part of the

\r?\n> tensioning process.

\r?\n> Spoke Prep tends to muffle it...

\r?\n>

\r?\n> And once again, 2000+ wheels using bare threads and oil

\r?\n> with no problems.

\r?\n>

\r?\n> I'll up my wager. The challenger can bring a couple

\r?\n> 300 lb brutes to test our

\r?\n> wheels afterwards. The challenger is free to use Spoke

\r?\n> Prep.

\r?\n>

\r?\n> I don't need it - because I already know that a

\r?\n> properly tensioned wheel

\r?\n> doesn't require a "glue" to keep the nipples

\r?\n> from coming loose.

\r?\n>

\r?\n> To each their own...

\r?\n>

\r?\n> Bob Shackelford

\r?\n> San Jose, CA USA

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n> Quoting Tom Dalton <tom_s_dalton@yahoo.com>:

\r?\n>

\r?\n> > Robert St Cyr said:

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> > With the rims I noticed a pattern of the spokes

\r?\n> > closest to the seam to tension more quickly due to the

\r?\n> thicker material in

\r?\n> > the rim at the seam. When at Interbike last week I

\r?\n> asked one of the velocit

\r?\n> > y reps If this was the case and he said it was true.

\r?\n> One can compensate by

\r?\n> > adding a 1 mm longer spoke or simply backing off the

\r?\n> spokes in that area ju

\r?\n> > st slightly.

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> > Robert, I know you know this, but what you've said

\r?\n> might be confusing to

\r?\n> > readers.  Changing the length of the spoke does not

\r?\n> change its final tension

\r?\n> > it only changes where the nipple sits along the length

\r?\n> of the thread.  You

\r?\n> > might use a longer spoke in the situation that you

\r?\n> describe in order to get

\r?\n> > full engagement of the spoke threads, but that does

\r?\n> not alter the final

\r?\n> > tension.  If the rim builds up in a way that requires

\r?\n> relatively tight or

\r?\n> > relatively loose spokes near the joint in order to

\r?\n> get it round, as they

\r?\n> > often do, then it's simply a bad rim, though not

\r?\n> necessarily unusable or

\r?\n> > defective.  It's a common problem, but

\r?\n> lenghtening (or shortening) a

\r?\n> > spoke won't resolve it.  

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> > This is not unlike calling the setup of indexed

\r?\n> shifter cables a tension

\r?\n> > adjustment, when it is really a change to the

\r?\n> effective cable length.

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> > Robert Shackelford wrote:

\r?\n> > 3.  Nipple glues (i.e., dried paint in the old days)

\r?\n> are too often a tool

\r?\n> > used

\r?\n> > not to build a better wheel - but instead to

\r?\n> obsfuscate a builder's

\r?\n> > inferiority

\r?\n> > complex over proper tensionsing.  Tensioning a wheel

\r?\n> properly assuming non-

\r?\n> > defective parts make "glues" unneccessary.

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> > Robert, while I agree with essentailly all the other

\r?\n> stuff you're said

\r?\n> > regarding the unnecessity of dial gauges (useless data

\r?\n> for certain, unless

\r?\n> > you're selling specs!) and tensiometers, I

\r?\n> strongly disagree with your

\r?\n> > assessment of nipple compounds.  While they may be

\r?\n> abused by people using

\r?\n> > them to keep weak undertensioned wheels from rattling

\r?\n> apart, they also have

\r?\n> > excellent utility in correctly built wheels.  My

\r?\n> properly built wheels only

\r?\n> > got better and easier to live with when I started to

\r?\n> use Spoke Prep.  The

\r?\n> > action at the nipple is smoother and you can make

\r?\n> smaller changes in spoke

\r?\n> > tension, because the material acts as a lubricant. 

\r?\n> Unlike oils and greases,

\r?\n> > WHICH HAVE NO PLACE ON SPOKE THREADS, Spoke Prep does

\r?\n> not lead to unwindling,

\r?\n> > and actually stabilizes the nipple.  In many cases

\r?\n> stainless spokes in brass

\r?\n> > nipples can corrode and sieze, and Spoke Prep

\r?\n> eliminates this problem too.  

\r?\n> > As for materials that form a solid bond, like certain

\r?\n> > Locktite compounds, that's just a bad choice

\r?\n> because it interferes with

\r?\n> > later adjustments.   So, old school stuff like

\r?\n> honey, linseed oil, or old

\r?\n> > paint (new to me) might be be more period correct, but

\r?\n> Spoke Prep is a great

\r?\n> > product for skilled builders.  Pure lubes (oils and

\r?\n> greases) and glues

\r?\n> > (locktite) are more than a little problematic.  Lube

\r?\n> on the nipple seat is a

\r?\n> > different matter, and not a problem in my experience,

\r?\n> though I only do it

\r?\n> > where I can feel a need. 

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> > Tom Harriman wrote:

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> > Having both ridden both store bought wheels and wheels

\r?\n> of my own making, I

\r?\n> > would like to shed a little light on this subject...

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> > We should all take comfort and pride in the fact that

\r?\n> we are helping to keep

\r?\n> > the art of wheel build alive and strong in our

\r?\n> culture.

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> > Tom,

\r?\n> > Thanks for shedding light on this, but the question

\r?\n> was directed specifically

\r?\n> > at Earle, and having built a few hundred wheels myself

\r?\n> and handled thousands

\r?\n> > of machine buit wheels, I am familiar with the

\r?\n> differences. 

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> > When the final result of a job correctly done looks

\r?\n> the same, and IS

\r?\n> > the same, irrespective of who did it, it is NOT

\r?\n> art.  Calling wheelbuilding

\r?\n> > art contributes to the overblown mystique of this

\r?\n> basic skill.  

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> > I realize that I sound a bit terse here, but I

\r?\n> sometimes feel like people

\r?\n> > don't read all the words my messages.  I think it

\r?\n> was pretty clear where I

\r?\n> > was headed in my message to Earle, which is that I

\r?\n> don't think he has any

\r?\n> > objective basis for his unusually high regard for his

\r?\n> own product, and I

\r?\n> > certainly don't think of wheelbuilding as some

\r?\n> mystical craft, let alone

\r?\n> > art.  It reminds me of the day I received a resprayed

\r?\n> frame in the mail from

\r?\n> > an unnamed painter, and without telling me he added a

\r?\n> large, conspicuous and

\r?\n> > especially ugly decal to advertize his company under

\r?\n> my clear coat.  When I

\r?\n> > questioned it, he was puzzled as to why I took issue,

\r?\n> and said it was "like

\r?\n> > an artist signing his work."  When I choose the

\r?\n> single color, provide the

\r?\n> > decals and specify their placement, where is the art?

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> > Tom Dalton

\r?\n> > Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, USA

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> >

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> >  

\r?\n> > Tom Dalton

\r?\n> >

\r?\n> >

\r?\n> >

\r?\n> >

\r?\n> >

\r?\n> > --

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\r?\n> > saved in a permanent database.

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n> --

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