Re:[CR] Frozen cup removal and loctite

(Example: Framebuilding:Tubing:Falck)

Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2008 14:30:51 -0400
To: "Classic Rendezvous" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
From: "John Betmanis" <johnb@oxford.net>
Subject: Re:[CR] Frozen cup removal and loctite
In-Reply-To: <BAY122-DS582A14CB28B0EC23D1C5EE6420@phx.gbl>


At 09:50 AM 01/10/2008 -0600, roger macphail wrote:
>I have used Sheldon Browns' method many times with excellent results. I
>made one modification that seems to help on extreme cases. I use a
>longer bolt so that I have two to three inches of bolt extending past
>the washer and nut placed against the outside edge of the cup. I also
>use a larger washer, 2 1/2 or 3 inches in diameter. I then can use my
>oxyacetylene torch to heat up the bolt as hot as necessary, allowing the
>heat transfer through the bolt to break the chemical bond of the
>loctite. The larger washer functions as a heat shield to protect the
>paint.

Good idea. You may want to re-tighten the nut and bolt after heating because it will have exoanded some and could slip. That's how steel structures were rivetted back in the day; the rivets were heated before inserting and peening so they would grip tighter when they cooled.

John Betmanis
Woodstock, Ontario
Canada