I have run different size tires quite often. 30 years ago a used 25mm in front and 28mm in the back. I have often done this for the personal reason of my weight, then about 230# @6' tall. i have also used a narrower front with a 38mm rear. Today the reason is still weight but on some bikes I want a heavier industrial "look." I have no other reason than aestetics. The narrower tire "looks" right in front.
happy trails John Strizek in Sacratomato Kaulifornia for US Americans
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CR
Today's Topics:
1. Stephen P Kinne/HBUS/HSBC is out of the office. 2. RE: Looking for ASC experiences and advice (Barb & Dan Artley) 3. Re: Question about logic of "unequal" brake reach (Kurt Sperry) 4. re: Question about logic of "unequal" brake reach (Jack Fortune) 5. cotter pin fit (W PAUL PATZKOWSKY) 6. Re: Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 62, Issue 121Re: Question about logic of "unequal" brake reach (John Wood) (Anthony) 7. Re: Toronto Bike Show (brian) 8. Re: cotter pin fit (Martin Appel) 9. Re: cotter pin fit (David Snyder) 10. Massive Ebay Outing Campagnolo Bennelux GB and more 11. Re: Re: [CR]Question about logic of "unequal" brake reach 12. Re: cotter pin fit 13. Re: Gitane seatpost size? (Brian Samson) 14. Clement Campionato Del Mondo (Jim Ready) 15. Re: Question about logic of "unequal" brake reach (David Snyder) 16. Re: cotter pin fit (Steven M. Johnson)
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Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 18:51:07 -0500 From: Stephen.P.Kinne@hsbcpb.com To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]Stephen P Kinne/HBUS/HSBC is out of the office. Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain;charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 1
I will be out of the office starting 02/29/2008 and will not return until 03/06/2008.
I will respond to your message when I return.
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Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 19:03:09 -0500 From: "Barb & Dan Artley" To: "Classic Rendezvous" Subject: RE: [CR]Looking for ASC experiences and advice Message-ID: <006901c87b2f$a2e93150$2e01a8c0@danbarbpc> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 2
Sheldon Brown once told me that the ASC hub was fragile, and to use higher gears so that you couldn't torque the hub too much. When I mentioned this to a friend, they remarked "Well ... Look how big Sheldon is." 8o) I've tried various gears of 42, 45, 46 (including a steel "Thetic" oval ring from the 30's, don't try to spin that on a downhill!!!) and finally a 48 with a 17 toothed cog, approximately 76", 68" and 57" gearing. Sheldon used Chuck Schmidt's favorite fixed gear 48 x 16. I'd like to try a 16 toothed cog, but they seem as rare as hens teeth in the 12 splined version that I have, and I won't do the AW driver with three splines conversion in order to get all the cogs like Harvey Sachs has done. If someone would sell or trade me that 16 toothed cog, please contact me! While even a 76" gear is much higher than I'd ride a single fixed gear, I love that combination of three speeds, and my other chainrings will be relegated to the parts bins for a while. 57" will get me up pretty stiff climbs with some grunting in my hilly area. Sheldon also said that down shifting in the middle of a (down) hill to enhance stopping with the pedals might be a mistake and I agree. With the extra backlash (even seems different in each gear) Neil Foddering is right about the bike riding like a three speed that doesn't coast, and using the brakes to protect the hub. The durn things really are quite expensive and rare.
I also had some trouble with needing to hold in the trigger on uphills in first gear. The cable has so much more tension in first that you may have to tighten up the cable to get it to work. It's unsettling to have the cranks freewheel on a fixed gear between 1st and 2nd when you're climbing, especially after Sheldon warned of breaking teeth on the epicyclic gearing. Better than reaching for the shifter, I quickly grabbed the cable and pulled it away from the top tube for extra tension to get the gears back. I later found that all the brackets had been slipping on the electricians tape I'd put under the brackets to 'protect' my classic frame, a curved tube Jack Taylor. Restoring the original locations and tightening the brackets a bit more fixed the problem. I think the hubs may be more solid than Sheldon thought, but that bike's still a ride I take good care of.
And it is a hoot to ride! The bike is comfortable, and especially on gently rolling terrain, it's an all day set of gears. I have a somewhat rolling metric that the ASC equipped bike works well with, probably would be great for Bike Florida too. I still haven't mastered the art of track standing a regular fixed gear, so I won't be a judge of it with the ASC though I've seen it done. I still think it's an honor to be able to ride such a cool set of gears. I took up someone's offer for the ASC a day after I'd heard it even existed. I had to have it! Have fun with yours.
Happy trails Sheldon and everyone,
Dan Artley in chilly Parkton, Maryland, USA
> Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 10:33:16 -0800
> From: adam(AT)onetwentyeight.com
> To: Classicrendezvous(AT)bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]Looking for ASC experiences and advice
>
> Hello CR!
>
> I'm picking up a Sturmey Archer ASC wheel later today for my Carlton
Flyer
> project, and wanted to solicit the lists input on what its like
dealing and
> riding with these hubs. I am picking up a proper ASC trigger, so I do
not
> need to worry about modifying a 4 speed. I am more curious to
people's
> experience riding them, and how they hold up to use and compare to
riding a
> standard fixed wheel. I have been riding fixed for several years, and
am
> very comfortable with it. Can the ASC hold up to back
pedaling/resisting
> while decending hills or tapering speed? I will have front and rear
brakes,
> but would I be a fool to initiate a skid with the ASC? Will I notice
the
> hub while track standing? Etc, etc., I have read Hillary Stone's
article
> on classic lightweights and sheldons page on the asc already.
> Eitherway, I am very excited to try it all out, as I have wanted one
of
> these hubs ever since I first heard of them when I initially getting
> interested in older bicycles and equipment.
>
> Best,
>
> Adam Schwarcz
> San Francisco, CA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 15:58:30 -0800 From: "Kurt Sperry" Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: Re: [CR]Question about logic of "unequal" brake reach Message-ID: <75d04b480802291558y3ad3dc61s67533ab44bcb0b5a@mail.gmail.com> In-Reply-To: <008701c87b21$b7437dd0$0202a8c0@Leo> References: <27104274.1204305251608.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <00b401c87afe$a0eda5b0$2c01a8c0@bike1> <008701c87b21$b7437dd0$0202a8c0@Leo> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Reply-To: haxixe@gmail.com Message: 3
Has anyone ever actually run different sized tires front/rear on their vintage bikes? I don't think I've ever seen it. I've always thought that having different reach brakes f/r was illogical.
Kurt Sperry Bellingham WA USA ------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 16:05:10 -0800 From: Jack Fortune To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: re: [CR]Question about logic of "unequal" brake reach Message-ID: <47C89DB6.3040907@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 4
> ... wondered about this ourselves. there's a Hetchins in the back room with:
>
> 27 inch wheels ...
> period campy long reach brakes ... with a campy drop bolt on the back end
> .
> what's up with that ... although it's kind of neat.
>
I'm pretty sure the reason Campagnolo made the drop bolt was so that their brakes could be retro-fitted to frames built for uneven brake reach.
It seems that in the early 1970's there were still Universal brakes being manufactured (If I remember correctly) that had a longer reach on the rear - I had a friend whose Atala was this way.
regards,
Jack Fortune Eugene, Oregon USA ------------------------------
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 00:21:02 +0000 From: W PAUL PATZKOWSKY To: Subject: [CR]cotter pin fit Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 5
I'm wondering if, as a temporary measure, one can use a shim such as a p iece of pop can to improve the fit of cotter pins. I have a pair that are very close to having the proper taper and they may even work but I want to be sure. I'm also looking for cotter pins that fit even better as a perman ent replacement.
Paul Patzkowsky Longmont, Colorado
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 19:24:44 -0500 From: "Anthony" To: Subject: [CR]Re: Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 62, Issue 121Re: Question about logic of "unequal" brake reach (John Wood) Message-ID: <2D5FEB5055AB46518F0A90C1B70A8205@AnthonyPC> In-Reply-To: References: Content-Type: text/plain;format=flowed;charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 6
Hi Gang, Perhaps the rear bridge is higher because the bridge was mitered short; so raise it up to fit braze it in and put a drop bolt to reach. Anthony mezzatesta Anthony Mezzatesta Custom Cycles Cranberry Twp. PA. 16066 http://www.mezzatestacustomcycles.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 19:37:38 -0500 (EST) From: brian To: Classic Rendezvous Subject: [CR]Re: Toronto Bike Show Message-ID: <727857.22399.qm@web88201.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Precedence: list Message: 7
List et al,
Sadly the Toronto Bike Show is anything and everything but a show. Mostly it's a giant clearance sale of local bike shops trying to blow out inventory. T
There are very few, Manufacturers and Importers that actually show any new product.
Brian Frank Toronto Canada
Marc email me when your in TO twobouvs at yahoo.ca
At 08:48 AM 29/02/2008 -0800, Marc St. Martin wrote:
>I'll be in Toronto all week next week on business
In case you didn't know, the Toronto International Bicycle show is at the end of that week.
http://www.telsec.net/
I haven't been to it for maybe 15 years and then it was 90% mountain bikes, so now I expect it's 95% MTBs and plastic road bikes, but you never know.
John Betmanis Woodstock, Ontario Canada
--------------------------------- Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2008 01:43:46 +0100 From: Martin Appel To: W PAUL PATZKOWSKY Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: Re: [CR]cotter pin fit Message-ID: <47C8A6C2.1080407@team-ware.de> In-Reply-To: References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Reply-To: martin@team-ware.de Message: 8
Cotter pins never fit exatly, thats why they are filed :)
Martin Appel Munich, Germany
--- *looking for "Automoto" fork crown medals! please send mail :)
*visit the search engine for classic racing bike related stuff:
http://www.google.com/
*view my classic vintage lightweight bicycles at:
http://www.wooljersey.com/
W PAUL PATZKOWSKY schrieb:
> I'm wondering if, as a temporary measure, one can use a shim such as a p
> iece of pop can to improve the fit of cotter pins. I have a pair that are
> very close to having the proper taper and they may even work but I want to
> be sure. I'm also looking for cotter pins that fit even better as a perman
> ent replacement.
>
> Paul Patzkowsky
> Longmont, Colorado
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 16:50:19 -0800 From: "David Snyder"
To: "Classic Rendezvous" Subject: Re: [CR]cotter pin fit Message-ID: <000301c87b36$39838470$4001a8c0@compaq> References: Content-Type: text/plain;format=flowed;charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 9
If you add shim stock keep in mind it would have to be of equivalent hardness to the cotter, and the pinching stresses will likely tear any shim of less than a certain thickness.
Depending on how much you're trying to alter the press depth of the cotter you might find that only a very thin shim will fit, and stresses are pretty high in this area.
David Snyder
Auburn, CA usa
>
> I'm wondering if, as a temporary measure, one can use a shim such as a p
> iece of pop can to improve the fit of cotter pins. I have a pair that are
> very close to having the proper taper and they may even work but I want to
> be sure. I'm also looking for cotter pins that fit even better as a
> perman
> ent replacement.
>
> Paul Patzkowsky
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2008 00:54:18 +0000 From: hersefan@comcast.net To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: [CR]Massive Ebay Outing Campagnolo Bennelux GB and more Message-ID: <030120080054.9485.47C8A93A00039A470000250D2205886172020E000A9C9D0A08@comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Precedence: list Message: 10
Hi CR folks,
I just posted a bunch of stuff on ebay today. Some great items with no reserve (like NR Italian track bb and deraillieurs and Bennelux Deraillieur Kit and GB superhoods and universal hood) and then stuff with more serious starting price - like the pair of Prototype C-Rec large flange hubs from a tradeshow in the early 80's.
You can find stuff by searching on my ebay name: shimano99
Or, start the process by following the link below for the bb
Thanks so much!
Mike Kone Rene Herse Bicycles Inc. Boulder Bicycle
All in scenic Boulder Colorado!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 18:58:09 -0600 (CST) From: To: Kurt Sperry Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: Re: Re: [CR]Question about logic of "unequal" brake reach Message-ID: <2842587.312711204333089192.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 11
I did and still do!
>From: Kurt Sperry
>Date: 2008/02/29 Fri PM 05:58:30 CST
>Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
>Subject: Re: [CR]Question about logic of "unequal" brake reach
>Has anyone ever actually run different sized tires front/rear on their
>vintage bikes? I don't think I've ever seen it. I've always thought
>that having different reach brakes f/r was illogical.
>
>Kurt Sperry
>Bellingham WA
>USA
>_______________________________________________
Stevn Willis The Bike Stand 1778 East 2nd Street Scotch Plains NJ 07076 thebikestand.com 908-322-330 ------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 18:59:57 -0600 (CST) From: To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org, W PAUL PATZKOWSKY Subject: Re: [CR]cotter pin fit Message-ID: <4753527.313251204333197266.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 12
Yes but it did never last long for me. I have sometimes turned the pin over and filed the pin to fit.
>From: W PAUL PATZKOWSKY
>Date: 2008/02/29 Fri PM 06:21:02 CST
>To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
>Subject: [CR]cotter pin fit
>
> I'm wondering if, as a temporary measure, one can use a shim such as a p
>iece of pop can to improve the fit of cotter pins. I have a pair that are
>very close to having the proper taper and they may even work but I want to
>be sure. I'm also looking for cotter pins that fit even better as a perman
>ent replacement.
>
>Paul Patzkowsky
>Longmont, Colorado
>
>
>_______________________________________________
Stevn Willis The Bike Stand 1778 East 2nd Street Scotch Plains NJ 07076 thebikestand.com 908-322-330 ------------------------------
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 17:12:32 -0800 From: Brian Samson
To: VintageBikes Subject: Re: [CR] Gitane seatpost size? Message-ID: In-Reply-To: <567504.86056.qm@web32003.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <567504.86056.qm@web32003.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes MIME-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v919.2) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 13
I have a mid-70s Gitane Tour de France and ran into the same difficulty. I think a too-small post had been used previously and the lug was distorted a bit. I massaged it back into shape until the cross section was round, basing the size on the curvature of the lug where the seat stays are brazed, which seemed undistorted. I ended up using a 26.2 and it seemed to work well. Measuring the ID is confusing because it depends on where you measure. The ID of the seat tube below the lug is somewhat larger - about 27.2 mm if I recall correctly - but the tube seems to be pinched a bit inside the lug. I
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