I use COMET cleaser with saliva on a paper towel. Brian Blum berkeley
> Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 06:48:55 -0400
> From: hmsachs@verizon.net
> Subject: re: [CR]Restoring Dirty Campy and Carlton Hoods
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org; gillies@ece.ubc.ca
>
> I think that I've found something better than acetone for cleaning
> deeply grimy brake lever hoods: Tire repair shops use proprietary
> solvents like "Rub-R-Flux" for spot-cleaning the areas around punctures
> in inner tubes before applying a patch. works better than sanding. I've
> found over the years that it works nicely for degriming hoods, too. No
,
> it is not a magic elixir that fixes cracks and restores youthful
> suppleness, but it does make them look very nice, with little effort.
> CAUTION: The one I'm using does contain some nasty solvents
> (trichloroethylene, xylene, ethylbenzen), but I use rather tiny amo
unts
> and try to do so outside. I think I paid $8 for a quart many years ago,
> tend to get about a decade/quart. The goal is to be in good enough
> health to use up at least one more after this one. :-) I'm about 3/4
> throgh this can, and it is at least my second one, so the health effe
cts
> are not real quick at this level of use.
>
> Also, Don, thanks for the idea of waxing after cleaning; I hadn't
> thought of that.
>
> harvey "creaky" sachs
> mcLean va usa.
>
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++
> Don Gilles wrote:
>
> I don't think there is a magic material that can be added to dry
> cracked hoods to make them soft like new again. But, here is how I
> rejuventated some original 1985 Campagnolo shield-logo hoods for a
> TREK 510 two days ago :
>
> 1. Clean the hoods. If you can use soap and water, simple green, or
> whatnot, more power to you. For my terminally dirty (but supple)
> hoods, I used acetone. Be careful as this solvent will remove a
> thin layer of rubber from the hoods, and make them very sticky.
> Do not wipe the shield logos more than once, or you may
> accidentally remove the logos.
>
> 2. Wax the hoods twice with a high-quality polymer wax, such as
> NuFinish or Raindance (the type of wax that lasts a year). This
> will restore the slick finish, and helps to seal the hoods from
> damaging ozone, which will eventually destroy the natural gum
> rubber in the hoods.
>
> I have used the same procedure on Carlton hoods. The logos are just
> as easily dissolved by acetone on Carlton hoods as on Campagnolo. The
> carlton hoods get very dull after the acetone treatment, but the wax
> helps to shine them up again. The benefit of using acetone is that it
> really does remove a thin film of plastic, which brightens up yellowed
> hoods like a good mouth-bleaching set might do to a smoker's teeth ...
>
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