[CR]Mt Diablo Ride and English wheels

(Example: Framebuilding:Tubing)

From: "Ted Trambley" <tedtrambley@gmail.com>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
In-Reply-To: <MONKEYFOODYMUL0poCR00002663@monkeyfood.nt.phred.org>
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 21:30:30 -0800
References:
Subject: [CR]Mt Diablo Ride and English wheels

Charles Nighbor - I too was on the top of Mt Diablo this morning. I left Martinez at 8 AM riding my "69 Peugeot PX10 - it was cold but beautiful. I had a lot of comments about the vintage steel.

I have a question regarding the wheels of English bicycles. My '69 Raleigh Sprite, '51 Raleigh Clubman and '51 Humber Clubman all came with wheels that are built without tucking the spokes in when crossing them in the pattern which I would think is substantially weaker. Jobst Brandt calls this interlacing. Why were English wheels not interlaced? I have two sets of Spence Wolf tied and soldered wheels for vintage Italian bikes and Jobst says that was unnecessary. I am going to build up some new wheels for the Humber I'm restoring using Bayless Wiley track hubs on some NOS Dunlop Special Lightweight Steel rims. I have always interlaced spokes on my wheels. Is there a reason I shouldn't on these? Also, did the British tie and solder?

Ted Trambley Cold on the MTN in Martinez,CA USA On Jan 1, 2009, at 6:10 PM, <classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org> <classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org > wrote:
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> CR
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: 1973? Colnago Super - opinions on year? (David G. White)
> 2. Re: WTB Dynoshoe Dynamo bracket (Kai Hilbertz)
> 3. Confente (Doug Fattic)
> 4. Re: WTB: Yellow Cloth Bar Tape (2 Rolls) (Drew Ellison)
> 5. Re: Romic Bikes and Removing Bar Covering (M-gineering)
> 6. Grizzly Peak Cyclists Annual Mt. Diablo New Years Day ride
> (Charles Nighbor)
> 7. Re: Jan and CNC Cycles (Dickey)
> 8.
> for sale..rino bb cups..ciami and regina freewheels and rando
> handle
> bars
> 9. Re:Rubber Bar cover (Dickey)
> 10. Re: Romic Bikes and Removing Bar Covering
> 11. Rubber Bar cover and Romic frame (Jerome & Elizabeth Moos)
> 12. Check out my Facebook profile (Walter Charles Skrzypek III)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 15:01:34 -0500
> From: "David G. White" <whiteknight@burlingtontelecom.net>
> To: CLASSIC RENDEZVOUS <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: Re: [CR]1973? Colnago Super - opinions on year?
> Message-ID: <495D211E.9060503@burlingtontelecom.net>
> In-Reply-To: <70e14d4c0901010610v53169d8dg3191777064916196@mail.gmail.com
> >
> References: <495C22EA.2090804@burlingtontelecom.net>
> <70e14d4c0901010610v53169d8dg3191777064916196@mail.gmail.com>
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>
> Angel,
>
> Thanks for your observations. I've exchanged emails today with the
> fellow from whom I bought the frame and he assures me that he never
> had
> it repainted and never replaced any decals. Throughout the transaction
> and since he has seemed completely honest and trustworthy. And there
> is
> nothing on the frame that indicates anything other than original paint
> and decals. So... I wonder if the downtube decal with the club within
> the C is another example of the variability of Colnago frames during
> any
> given year?
>
> Best,
>
> David
>
> David G. White
> Burlington, VT
>
>
>
> Angel Garcia wrote:
>> I think the latest feature on this bike is the club within the C on
>> the
>> downtube. I have a 73/74 and it doesn't have the clubs there,
>> otherwise it
>> appears to be the same.
>>
>> Angel Garcia
>> Long Valley, NJ
>>
>> On Wed, Dec 31, 2008 at 8:56 PM, David G. White <
>> whiteknight@burlingtontelecom.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> I've just completed a rebuild on a 70s vintage Colnago Super,
>>> bought a few
>>> months back from a fellow who says he bought it as a bare frame,
>>> new, in
>>> 1979 or 1980 from a shop in Palo Alto, CA. He says the paint and
>>> decals are
>>> original. The details of the frame suggest 1973 to me, but many of
>>> you know
>>> far more than I do and I'd love to get your insights as to the
>>> year. Here's
>>> my analysis based on the info I've seen on the list in recent years:
>>>
>>> According to recent Colnago frame dating info that circulated on
>>> the CR
>>> list October 2007 the following are the years in which certain
>>> features
>>> first appeared:
>>>
>>> 1972 -- Cable guide braze-ons top of bottom bracket shell -- this
>>> one has
>>> this
>>> 1972 -- Water bottle braze-ons on downtube -- this one has this
>>> ----
>>> 1973 -- Wreath seat tube decal with Worlds band at top and bottom
>>> -- this
>>> one has this
>>> 1973 -- Fork crown with clubs on top but no holes in each side --
>>> this one
>>> has this
>>> 1973 -- Fork tangs with club cutouts (or rarely two hole tangs or
>>> no tangs)
>>> -- this one has two hole tangs
>>> 1973 -- Club cutout in lower head lug only -- this one has this
>>> ----
>>> 1974 -- Shifter braze-ons on down tube (option before this) --
>>> this one
>>> does NOT have this
>>> ----
>>> 1975 -- Vertical COLNAGO seat tube decal with diagonal Worlds band
>>> at top
>>> -- this one does NOT have this
>>>
>>> Assuming the above info is correct, then it can't be a 1972 since
>>> it has
>>> the wreath decal, the club cutout in the lower head lug only, and
>>> the fork
>>> crown with clubs on top but no holes in each side -- features that
>>> did not
>>> appear until 1973, yet can't be a 1974 because it does not have
>>> shifter
>>> braze-ons and can't be a 1975 because it does not have the
>>> vertical Colnago
>>> seat tube decal.
>>>
>>> Per a recent email I received from from John Murray, he believes
>>> that 1974
>>> and later bottom brackets have an oval cut-out on the bottom side
>>> of the
>>> downtube lug. Mine does not have such a cut-out, thus re-enforcing
>>> the
>>> notion that this is a 1973 frame.
>>>
>>> On the other hand Greg Softly says that on reproduction decals
>>> "...the
>>> wreath on the seat tube [is] outlined in black where the original
>>> was not
>>> outlined and not quite so 'busy' in design". Mine is outlined in
>>> black. So
>>> if Greg is correct, that suggests mine has been repainted and has
>>> replacement decals. Yet, there is no indication I can see that the
>>> paint is
>>> anything other than original.
>>>
>>> That's all I know folks! What year do you think this Colnago was
>>> made? I'd
>>> appreciate any insights you may have.
>>>
>>> See it here:
>>>
>>> <
>>> http://www.wooljersey.com/gallery/David-G-Whites-Bikes/1973+Colnago+Super/
>>>
>>> Cheers!
>>>
>>> David
>>>
>>> David G. White
>>> Burlington, VT
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 21:18:54 +0100
> From: Kai Hilbertz <khilbertz@googlemail.com>
> To: CR List <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>,
> <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: [CR]WTB Dynoshoe Dynamo bracket
> Message-ID: <2FC58BC0-B97B-478C-A86B-C3DF47AF03CF@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"; format=flowed; delsp=yes
> MIME-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v929.2)
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> Precedence: list
> Message: 2
>
> P.P.S.
>
> Just went to the basement and checked, I've got one of these "Basta"
> dynamo holders. Interestingly enough, on the inside it's marked
> "Soubitez MADE IN FRANCE". Go figure.
>
> Jerry, if'n you wanna try one out, contact me off list and I'll stuff
> this one in letter and send it at cost.
>
> Greets
>
> Kai Hilbertz
> Munich, Germany
>
>
> On 01.01.2009, at 20:49, Kai Hilbertz wrote:
>
>> Jan. 01, 09
>>
>> Dear Jerry, cc List,
>>
>> the pic on the Rose website:
>> http://www.roseversand.de/output/controller.aspx?cid=156&detail=10&detail2=2506
>> is actually comprised of two photos.
>>
>> The top is the entire one piece holder. The front has a vertical
>> slot to attach any dynamo you want at the correct height, and right
>> behind this vertical slot is the round attachment hole for the
>> cantilever boss. Behind the cantilever attachment hole, which stands
>> off from the body at 90 degrees, the holder proceeds towards the
>> rear, where it branches into two tabs that press against the fork or
>> seat stay tube. The tabs are to keep the whole assembly with the
>> dynamo from turning on the axis of the cantilever boss.
>>
>> Because of the way the dynamo holder is formed, a dynamo can be
>> mounted either on the front fork at the left in front of the fork,
>> facing forwards, or on the right seat stay behind the stay, facing
>> towards the rear. The second pic shows the holder, facing in the
>> same direction towards the front, mounted on a red fork. Note that
>> the fork obscures most of the length of the holder, which is behind
>> it.
>>
>> At the top left of the second image, proceeding down towards the
>> middle, you see the rear of a Basta/Union dynamo which has been
>> mounted on the vertical slot of the holder.
>>
>> Here are some further pics:
>>
>> http://www.amazon.de/BASTA-Dynamohalter-f%C3%BCr-Cantilever-Bremsen/dp/B001EIFUYI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=sports&qid=1230837771&sr=1-6
>>
>> http://www.veloplus.ch/AlleProdukte/Beleuchtung/MontageteileHalterungen/DYNOFIXDynamohalterfuerCanti-Sockel.aspx
>>
>> Note that Basta makes a similar holder to attach a rear light. This
>> lacks a vertical slot to vary the height, but the principle is
>> exactly the same:
>> http://www.roseversand.de/output/controller.aspx?cid=156&detail=10&detail2=2541
>>
>> I have no idea if Basta is sold in the US of A. If not, and the
>> Zinkens holder is no longer being made, perhaps Peter White might be
>> interested in importing them?
>>
>> Greets
>>
>> Kai Hilbertz
>> Munich, Germany
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.roseversand.de/output/controller.aspx?cid=156&detail=10&detail2=2541
>> On 01.01.2009, at 17:20, Jerome & Elizabeth Moos wrote:
>>
>>> Can't tell from the photo how one secures the dynamo to the
>>> bracket. Are there bits not shown? Must one improvise some bits
>>> to use this with a B&M dynamo? Does anyone in America sell the
>>> Basta?
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>> Jerry Moos
>>> Big Spring, Texas, USA
>>>
>>>
>>> --- On Thu, 1/1/09, Kai Hilbertz <khilbertz@googlemail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> From: Kai Hilbertz <khilbertz@googlemail.com>
>>>> Subject: Re: [CR]WTB Dynoshoe Dynamo bracket
>>>> To: "CR List" <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
>>>> Cc: jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net
>>>> Date: Thursday, January 1, 2009, 8:33 AM
>>>> P.S.
>>>> Basta has a slightly different holder which is cheap and
>>>> also might be
>>>> of interest. This model is for left-side dynamos only:
>>>>
>>>> http://www.roseversand.de/output/controller.aspx?cid=156&detail=10&detail2=2506
>>>>
>>>> Greets
>>>>
>>>> Kai Hilbertz
>>>> Munich, Germany
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 01.01.2009, at 15:14, Kai Hilbertz wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Jan. 1, 09
>>>>>
>>>>> Dear List,
>>>>>
>>>>> Sjscycles.co.uk is out, but Evans has them:
>>>>>
>>>> http://www.evanscycles.com/products/busch-muller/zinkens-dynashoe-lt-bracket-ec006342
>>>>>
>>>>> Or just google "Zinkens Dynashoe" and see
>>>> what you get.
>>>>>
>>>>> Greets
>>>>>
>>>>> Kai Hilbertz
>>>>> Munich, Germany
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 01.01.2009, at 03:25, Mike Schmidt wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Check with St. John Cyclery in the UK. They have
>>>> more lighting
>>>>>> brackets than......
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Happy New Year from fridgid New York City.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike Schmidt
>>>>>> Artisinal Restaurant
>>>>>> Park Ave @32nd
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Dec 31, 2008, at 5:20 PM, Jerome &
>>>> Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> At the risk of starting a thread that has
>>>> nothing to do with Mario
>>>>>>> Confente, Faliero Masi, or any Italian of whom
>>>> I am aware, I'm
>>>>>>> looking for a Dynoshoe dynamo bracket.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> This is a bracket that attaches to a
>>>> Cantilever brake boss and
>>>>>>> mounts a dynamo and perhaps a front light as
>>>> well. Peter White
>>>>>>> used to sell them, but he is sold out and says
>>>> they are no longer
>>>>>>> made. I don't know if B&M made them,
>>>> but they were often used
>>>>>>> with B&M dynamos. My understanding is
>>>> that the bracket can be
>>>>>>> mounted to the cantilever boss without
>>>> interferring with the
>>>>>>> cantilever caliper. I have a Matt Assenmacher
>>>> touring bike that
>>>>>>> has cantilever bosses and lots of other
>>>> brazeons, but no dynamo
>>>>>>> mount, and I hate clamping brackets to nice
>>>> frames. Having sorted
>>>>>>> out the B&M dynamo lighting on the Caygill
>>>> with some help from
>>>>>>> Peter White, I really like it as well as
>>>> similar stuff on the new
>>>>>>> Bates. Doug Fattic is adding a brazeon mount
>>>> to the frame his is
>>>>>>> finishing for me. Don't want to add a
>>>> brazeon to the Assenmacher,
>>>>>>> so the Dynashoe sounds lke the best option.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Jerry Moos
>>>>>>> Much Colder today than yesterday in Big
>>>> Spring, Texas, USA
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>> Classicrendezvous mailing list
>>>>>>> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
>>>>>>>
>>>> http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/classicrendezvous
>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>> Classicrendezvous mailing list
>>>>>> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
>>>>>>
>>>> http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/classicrendezvous
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Classicrendezvous mailing list
>>>> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
>>>> http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/classicrendezvous
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 15:50:16 -0500
> From: Doug Fattic <fatticbicycles@qtm.net>
> To: 'Classic Rendevous' <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR] Confente
> Message-ID: <C58296B8.111FC%fatticbicycles@qtm.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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>
> I'm always fascinated by people's opinions of what they consider to
> be the
> best frames and in particular the value of a Confente. I doubt it is
> possible for most to agree on what makes the "best" anyway. The
> ride, the
> way it looks - and if it is the ride, what one likes another won't.
>
> I've always had a bit of a grudge against Confente. Not him
> personally (I
> can't remember if I talked to him at the 1977 New York show) but this
> attitude got started when I was visiting my relatives in Southern
> California
> in 1976. I have a cousin (once removed) that started Raincross
> Cyclery in
> Riverside, CA. I was showing him the bikes I made for my wife and I
> thinking there might be the possibility of some business between
> us. He
> seemed only politely interested. I was expecting him to look close
> at the
> lug work and say something nice and find that I had apprenticed in
> England
> of real interest. Isn't that what family members are supposed to
> do? But
> no, he wanted to tell me about Confente instead. He wondered if I
> could do
> brake attachments like him. So he had one of SoCal's nationally known
> racers (a name I've forgotten now) come and show me his Confente.
> That was
> the first time I saw recessed brake bolts.
>
> In retrospect I can see why my cousin had such a high opinion of a
> Confente
> and held it up to me as the standard. His impression was formed by
> the
> combination of decals, paint, lug cut-outs, the trick brake bolts
> and the
> fact that the rider he most looked up to rode one. He wasn't looking
> closely at how my nicely my lugs were filed, etc. That in fact didn't
> matter to him because he wasn't about fine details but rather the
> overall
> effect. I doubt he paid much attention to mine after looking at my
> plain
> decals (which I refined a year or so later).
>
> Doug Fattic
> Niles, Michigan
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 12:53:27 -0800
> From: Drew Ellison <drew@masirider.com>
> To: Eric Elman <tr4play@cox.net>
> Cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]WTB: Yellow Cloth Bar Tape (2 Rolls)
> Message-ID: <85D2321B-24E4-4F47-9C1D-5FBBD5922F8F@masirider.com>
> In-Reply-To: <000901c96c44$d4d9f6c0$6401a8c0@acerad993ba82b>
> References: <20081226122608.I5TEK.406628.root@mp19>
> <000901c96c44$d4d9f6c0$6401a8c0@acerad993ba82b>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"; format=flowed; delsp=yes
> MIME-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v930.3)
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> Message: 4
>
> I bought off of eBay a large spool of yellow cotton binding ribbon, or
> cotton binding tape. It's very similar to handlebar tape in looks and
> size, but thinner, more flexible, and no adhesive. When wrapping, it
> changes direction easier, but you've got to be careful about not
> creating crinkles and folds. But you can buy a 25 yard roll for about
> $10, so you can be very generous in the overlap. It comes in different
> colors and widths, so you can get creative if you want. Then some
> shellac on that and noone can tell the difference. I don't see any
> yellow on eBay at the moment, but keep looking. You may also be able
> to get it from fabric suppliers, dunno.
>
> Drew Ellison
> Everett, Washington USA
>
> On Jan 1, 2009, at 11:12 AM, Eric Elman wrote:
>
>> Subject line says it all. Anyone?
>>
>> Thanks in advance and Happy, Healthy New Year to all.
>>
>> Eric Elman
>> Somers, CT USA
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Classicrendezvous mailing list
>> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
>> http://www.bikelist.org/mailman/listinfo/classicrendezvous
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 22:53:33 +0100
> From: M-gineering <info@m-gineering.nl>
> Cc: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: Re: [CR]Romic Bikes and Removing Bar Covering
> Message-ID: <495D3B5D.3050609@m-gineering.nl>
> In-Reply-To: <444179.86349.qm@web82207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> References: <444179.86349.qm@web82207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
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>
> Jerome & Elizabeth Moos wrote:
> The
>> stem on the bike is much too short, so even if I reuse the bars, the
>> covering has to come off at least one side to change the stem.
>> Anyone know a way of doing this without destroying the bar covering,
>> or is this an impossible undertaking?
>
>
> syringe with needle: inject water or methylated spirits through the
> covering in several places between bar and grip. Redistribute the
> liquid
> all over the circumference and push the covering of
> --
> mvg
>
> Marten Gerritsen
> Kiel Windeweer
> Netherlands
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 14:55:49 -0800
> From: Charles Nighbor <cnighbor1@comcast.net>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Grizzly Peak Cyclists Annual Mt. Diablo New Years Day
> ride
> Message-ID: <0FD45F6CA8024F909AC8501233F95AB4@gatewayan2blld>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 6
>
>
> 1 Jan 09
> I just rode the Grizzly Peak Cyclists Annual Mt. Diablo New Years Day
> ride. Today 40 riders braved the cold foggy morning start at Walnut
> Creek B.A.R.T. Station. It is about a 4000' foot climb at about 5%.
> You
> get a 3600 view at the top except today was fog to 2500' elevation and
> than you broke out into sun and clear skies. At the beginning and at
> the Junction half way up I had to look who was riding what. And at the
> Junction there were 40 to 50 more riders besides my club.
> I saw these steel lugged bicycles 1 Bruce Gordon,2 Ed Litton, 1
> Bridgestone, 1 Davidson (mine), 4 rivendells various models, 2 Steve
> Rex's, 1 Paul Taylor with fancy lugs, 1 Della Santa, 1 71 Frejus, 1
> Trek, and I Bianchi. Which is a very good reprehensive group for say a
> total of 65 bikes.
> Steel is real
> ''Mount Diablo, one of the most important California State Parks, is
> an
> isolated 1173 meter (3849 feet) peak from which it is possible to view
> the second greatest surface area seen from any peak in the world
> (exceeded only by Mount Kilimanjaro in Africa). Being its highest
> point,
> it is one of the rare places in the Bay Area to receive some snow. The
> vegetation of mixed oaks, grasslands, and chaparal is typical of the
> interior hills of the Bay Area. ''
> <http://www.terragalleria.com/california/california.sf-interior-east-bay
> .
> html>
> http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=517
> <
> Have a great new 2009 year riding
> Charles Nighbor Walnut Creek, CA USA
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 17:04:00 -0600
> From: Dickey <ogreer@bellsouth.net>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Re: Jan and CNC Cycles
> Message-ID: <D33F39AE2D0742B5860C0040F0162D22@cpugreer>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 7
>
> Jan don't forget about Viko the dog who went to work everyday with
> Fletcher. He kept the worker morale up!
> Dickey Greer
> West Monroe,La
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 18:15:14 -0500
> From: <Rnitro1969@aol.com>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]
> for sale..rino bb cups..ciami and regina freewheels and rando handle
> bars
> Message-ID: <bfe.53fba7b5.368ea882@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> Precedence: list
> Message: 8
>
> greetings
>
> rino italian chrome finish bb cups
> with bearings
> $15.00 shipped
>
> ciami gold finish 6 speed freewheel
> 14-15-16-17-18-20
> $25.00 shipped u.s.
>
> regina oro 6 speed freewheel
> 12-13-14-16-18-21
> $25.00 shipped u.s.
>
>
> handle bars.
>
> 1 gb randoneur bars
> 1 gb maes randoneur bars
> 1 phillippe straight french bars.
> $35.00 shipped u.s.
>
>
> thanks
> robbie fellows
> lakewood,ca.
> usa
>
> **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is
> making
> headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026)
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 17:21:26 -0600
> From: Dickey <ogreer@bellsouth.net>
> To: <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Re:Rubber Bar cover
> Message-ID: <57DB08E4D17A48D0B94B96D15E29C349@cpugreer>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Message: 9
>
> Hey Jerry, Why not try a long skinny Phillips screw driver slid under
> the sheath after you warm it up a little with a hair dryer. Spray some
> wd40 inside and try rotating the sheath around to let the lube run
> everywhere inside. This works on motorcycle grips, but, they are not
> near as long.
> Dickey Greer
> West Monroe,La
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2009 00:31:39 +0000
> From: <joeb-z@comcast.net>
> To: <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Cc: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: [CR]Romic Bikes and Removing Bar Covering
> Message-ID: <010220090031.15661.495D606A000EDAEC00003D2D221202078496D30D0A0106@comcast.net
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain
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> Message: 10
>
> First try: Compressed air. Jam a nozzle under the top and see if you
> can sort of inflate them off the bar. Sometimes this works very
> nicely.
>
> Second try: Soap and water. Injected up under the covers.
>
> Third try: Silicone lubricant.
>
> Solvent or oil based stuff may damage the covers and tends to soften
> them a little and thus increase the stick unless you flood them.
>
> These sound like the Motobecane covers and I can't say I ever got
> those off intact.
>
> Joe Bender-Zanoni
> Whitneyville, CT
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
>> After a cold day yesterday, it is warmer today, and I am finally
>> getting around
>> to cleaning up the 70's or early 80's Romic touring bike I bought
>> in July. I
>> think the post earliier today about the eBay Romic may have
>> motivated me.
>>
>> As mentioned in my below post from July, it has rather cool GB bar
>> plugs, but
>> also marked "Paris". The concensus at the time was that these have
>> no
>> connection to Gerry Burgess of GB UK, but are much too old to have
>> been produced
>> by Gilles Berthoud, who is not that old a man.
>>
>> Also mentioned at the time was the bar covering, which is made to
>> look like sewn
>> on leather bar tape, but is really rubber push on stuff, like
>> GrabOns, only
>> harder rubber, not foam. At the time several people said this
>> stuff was nothing
>> special, some thought it downright nasty. Any different opinion?
>> Is this stuff
>> worth saving? And assuming it were, anyone know how to get it off
>> the bars
>> without destroying it? In the past, I've never tried to save used
>> GrabOns, not
>> only becasue I never liked them and because they broke up with age,
>> but because
>> it looked pretty hard to remove them once they had been on a
>> while. So I just
>> cut them off and was done with it. The stem on the bike is much
>> too short, so
>> even if I reuse the bars, the covering has to come off at least one
>> side to
>> change the stem. Anyone know a way of doing this without
>> destroying the bar
>> covering, or is this an impossible undertaking?
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Jerry Moos
>> Big Spring, Texas, USA
>>
>>
>>
>> --- On Thu, 7/17/08, Jerome & Elizabeth Moos
>> <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>>> From: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
>>> Subject: [CR]Berthoud? Bar Covering
>>> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
>>> Date: Thursday, July 17, 2008, 8:55 PM
>>> Received today this bike:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> http://ebay.com/<blah>
>> temZ110267043540QQihZ001QQcategoryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>>>
>>> Those who know me know I am a cheapass, so a complete
>>> touring bike for less than 1/3 the price of a Limited
>>> Edition Ti Brooks Swallow, or $30 more than a long sleeve
>>> Vintage Velo wool jersey is hard for me to resist.
>>> Especially with the excellent SunShine ProAm wheels and the
>>> equally excellent Sugino Mighty Tour cranks. And I love
>>> Weinmann 500 brakes - everything you need - nothing you
>>> don't.
>>>
>>> What makes this a bit special for me is that Romic was
>>> built by the late Ray Gasorowski in Houston, TX. from who I
>>> bought my daughter's 24" wheel junior road bike and
>>> a custom track frame In The Day. he also repainted a couple
>>> of bike for me. One surprising thing is that the bike has a
>>> foil decal from a shop in Minneapolis. I thought Ray only
>>> sold through shops in Houston and the surrounding area.
>>>
>>> Unpacking it I find it has bluish green GB rubber barend
>>> plugs. I thought these were "GB" as in Gerry (or
>>> is it Gary) Burgess, but it also say "Paris".
>>> Does "GB" then mean Giles Berthoud instead? If
>>> so, this raises the issue of the bar coverings. As seen in
>>> the photos, these look similar to perforated sewn-on leather
>>> coverings. But instead, the are rubber. Not the fragile
>>> foam like Grabons, but thick, heavy rubber. Could these bar
>>> coverings be Berthoud as well? If so, I may have to rethink
>>> my initial inclination to cut them off.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>> Jerry Moos
>>> Big Spring, Texas, USA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>> Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
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> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 16:36:01 -0800
> From: Jerome & Elizabeth Moos <jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net>
> To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>, Dickey <ogreer@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: [CR]Rubber Bar cover and Romic frame
> Message-ID: <505054.48732.qm@web82208.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> In-Reply-To: <57DB08E4D17A48D0B94B96D15E29C349@cpugreer>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
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> Precedence: list
> Reply-To: jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net
> Message: 11
>
> Well, that worked quite nicely. They came off to reveal the Romic
> was equipped with plain GB randonneur bars, similar to those used on
> Schwinn Super Sports and Sports Tourers. The GB marking is on the
> end of the drops, where it would normally be covered with tape. Now
> whether these bar covers were actually worth saving remains to be
> established.
>
> BTW, the frame cleaned up pretty nicely. Amazing how much better a
> good washing and several coats of Mother's Carnuba Gold paste wax
> will make an old frame look. The paint has some scratches and
> chips, but has a nice lustre after waxing. A metallic bluish
> silver. I'm almost sure Ray pained this with Imron, even though it
> is a mid-priced touring frame, probably Tange tubing. I know Ray
> used Imron almost exclsuively for his top frames. Some say the
> alleged toxic nature of Imron may have contributed to his early death.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jerry Moos
> Big Spring, Texas, USA
>
>
>
>
>
> --- On Thu, 1/1/09, Dickey <ogreer@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>> From: Dickey <ogreer@bellsouth.net>
>> Subject: Re:Rubber Bar cover
>> To: jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
>> Date: Thursday, January 1, 2009, 5:21 PM
>> Hey Jerry, Why not try a long skinny Phillips screw driver
>> slid under the sheath after you warm it up a little with a
>> hair dryer. Spray some wd40 inside and try rotating the
>> sheath around to let the lube run everywhere inside. This
>> works on motorcycle grips, but, they are not near as long.
>> Dickey Greer
>> West Monroe,La
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 18:10:21 -0800
> From: Walter Charles Skrzypek III <invite+yjfszf6c@facebookmail.com>
> To: Classicrendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR]Check out my Facebook profile
> Message-ID: <31476171c47e1f67302b26b4a3490941@localhost.localdomain>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Precedence: list
> Reply-To: Walter Charles Skrzypek III <maguahiker@gmail.com>
> Message: 12
>
> Hi classicrendezvous,
>
> I set up a Facebook profile where I can post my pictures, videos and
> events and I want to add you as a friend so you can see it. First,
> you need to join Facebook! Once you join, you can also create your
> own profile.
>
> Thanks,
> Walter
>
> To sign up for Facebook, follow the link below:
> http://www.facebook.com/p.php?i=1385130528&k=6Y166VP3QY5M5ACAXG66VR&r
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
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>
> End of Classicrendezvous Digest, Vol 73, Issue 4
> ************************************************

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