I found that you can start a hole without the bit jumping/walking if you us e a countersink bit. Light pressure and very slow speed is what you need , and you will have plenty of control even with a hand drill. Of course it's still a good idea to mark your spot with a punch, as Sean suggested.
Ray Dobbins
Miami Florida USA
From: Sean Flores <seaneee175@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [CR] Drilling stem To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Cc: beandk@rcn.com Date: Monday, January 26, 2009, 8:46 PM
David-
I often drill stems for bells and have found that the easiest way to do so is on the bike. I've done it in a vice before, but prefer the later. To me, th e bike provides the perfect amount of leverage for me. I suppose it's persona l preference though.
Also, don't just have at it, since the stem surface is round the drill bit will jump. Start with some sort of punch to create a small divot. Go slowly and use lots of cutting fluid. Also, towards the end, the bit may "catch" on the last pieces of metal, so take it easy.
Sean Flores San Francisco, CA
On Jan 26, 2009, at 3:56 PM, <classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org>
<classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org> wrote:
> From: David Bean <beandk@rcn.com>
> Date: January 26, 2009 10:44:35 AM PST
> To: "CR List (E-mail)" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Subject: [CR] Drilling stem
> Reply-To: beandk@rcn.com
>
>
> I lost a lowball auction for a 3TTT stem drilled for (and including) a
> centerpull brake adjuster. I like this idea and may try drilling one
> myself. Anyone have some tips? E.g. how best to clamp the stem on the
> drill press, how to ensure the drill starts properly, whether the
stem's
> strength might be impaired too much, etc...
>
> Thanks
>
> David Bean
> Arlington, MA USA
> beandk at are-see-enn dot com