Re: [CR] saddle soggers

(Example: Events:Cirque du Cyclisme:2004)

Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 21:49:30 +0000
From: "nicbordeaux" <nicbordeaux@yahoo.fr>
To: <mitch.harris531@gmail.com>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Subject: Re: [CR] saddle soggers


Thx for the info Mitch, it does seem from your link a text that moisture doesn't mean "dead" leather. I'm just a litle concerned that things may be a little more complex than totally soaking the leather all the way through, then drying it in the sun and rubbing in some oil. In other words, some expertise may be required, as with most "mechanical" or specialized tasks. Anyway, people are sensible, I guess we'll all be trying this technique out on otherwise completely shot leather saddles. Thx again Nick March, Agen 47000, France

--- En date de : Jeu 28.5.09, mitch harris <mitch.harris531@gmail.com> a écrit :


> De: mitch harris <mitch.harris531@gmail.com>

> Objet: Re: [CR] saddle soggers

> À: "nicbordeaux" <nicbordeaux@yahoo.fr>

> Cc:

> Date: Jeudi 28 Mai 2009, 23h05

> On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 2:34 PM,

> nicbordeaux <nicbordeaux@yahoo.fr>

> wrote:

>

> > Don't doubt for an instant that soaking a leather

> saddle thoroughly will make it supple, and the expansion, as

> with wood, will "seal" the cracks quite a bit. But a little

> worried about what happens further down the road. An ex o'

> mine who is a leather expert in the shoe industry said I was

> off my rocker if I soaked leather, because when it starts to

> really dry out it will be about as tough as a piece of

> cardboard. She explicitly said that the leather would be

> irreversably damaged, no ifs or buts.

> >

>

> This reasonable concern may arise from the possibility that

> water

> soaking removed some of the oil content of the

> leather.  This may need

> to be restored after soaking and fully drying.

>

> Some leather care advise on this worth reading is Peter

> Limmer's

> instructions for caring for the hiking and mountaineering

> boots he

> makes.

>

> http://www.limmerboot.com/

>

> Click on "boots."

> Boot leather is used differently from saddle leather, of

> course.

> Brooks/Ideals wear exclusively in tension while hiking

> boots are in

> tension, compression, repetitive wrinkling/bending, so

> cracks that

> open in Brooks happen for different reasons perhaps that

> cracks in

> boots.  But Limmer's explanations helped me see the

> relationship

> between moisture and oil in leather.

>

> Mitch Harris

> Little Rock Canyon, Utah, USA

> _______________________________________

> Basic Care:

>

> *Ensuring maximum use: It has been said that more fine

> boots have been

> ruined through neglect than through use. Having made the

> investment of

> purchasing top quality hiking or backpacking boots,

> customers can

> ensure maximum life and superior performance from their

> boots by

> exercising proper care. Correct boot maintenance includes

> treating

> boots with a substance that conditions and waterproofs the

> leather.

>

> * Softening leather: Limmer recommends the use of animal

> based

> preparations of a paste or grease nature to soften the

> leather on

> Standard, Midweight or Lightweight Limmer Boots only. (In

> some cases,

> natural liquid oils can saturate leather causing it to

> soften too

> much.) The stoutness of these Limmer boots makes softening

> leather,

> particularly during the break-in period, desirable. Only an

> extremely

> over zealous applicator could oversoften these Limmer

> products.

>

> * Caring for Ultralights: For the 2.4 mm lighter weight

> leather of a

> Limmer Ultralight, there is a danger leather could stretch

> and lose

> its supportive structure. For this product, Limmer

> recommends the use

> of applications specially designed for Nubuk or suede

> leather.

>

> * Caring for Walkers: In the case of the Limmer Walker, a

> soft creme

> polish combined with the occasional Limmer conditioning

> mentioned

> above is recommended.

>

> * Using straight oils: The use of straight oils, such as

> neats foot or

> mink oil in liquid form is not recommended because it tends

> to

> oversaturate and oversoften leather. Use of these products,

> over time,

> will cause leather to deteriorate.

>

> * Using wax or petroleum base products: These products are

> not

> recommended either even though they do provide

> waterproofing. As a

> living thing, leather has pores and these products can clog

> pores

> Clogging cuts down on a boot's ability to breathe. Over

> time, these

> products will stiffen the leather and, in this way, shorten

> its life

> span. Because they don't clog pores, natural animal oils

> don't dry out

> leather.

>

> * Timing your protection efforts: When Limmer boots are

> new, don't

> immediately waterproof. Wait until you notice a loss of

> water

> repellency. When your boots are dry and clean, apply a

> modest layer of

> grease rubbing it in well. Store your boots in an area of

> moderate

> temperature and humidity. Stay away from extremes such as a

> hot dry

> attic or a damp basement.

>

> * Storing your boots: Limmer recommends applying a layer of

> boot

> conditioner whenever boots are placed in storage with

> another

> application, perhaps, before you use them again. Limmer's

> own line of

> boot conditioner is a time tested combination of animal

> paste and

> waterproofing additives. It has repeatedly proven its

> ability to

> provide optimum results and contribute to the renowned

> longevity of

> Limmer products. Limmer also recommends the use of wooden

> shoe trees.

>

> Special Care

>

> * Dealing with heat: If your boots become completely

> saturated with

> water, for whatever reason, they should not be allowed to

> dry with any

> rapidity. When leather dries too quickly, it stiffens and

> has a

> tendency to crack. Exposure to excessive heat during the

> drying

> process can burn leather and cause severe, irrepairable

> damage. Too

> much heat can also reactivate the thermally activated

> adhesives used

> to attach sole to boot in which case soles can loosen or

> fall off.

>

> * Drying your boots: Drying should be done at a moderate

> rate, away

> from heat. Once boots are saturated, stuff them with

> newspapers for

> the first day of drying. Change paper, frequently, to

> remove moisture

> and maintain shape.

>

> * Treating your boots: Once they are dry, apply a moderate

> coat of

> Limmer Boot Conditioner which will also waterproof the

> leather.

> Include the area of stitching on the welt as well. If boots

> are new,

> however, the application of any grease must wait until the

> factory

> applied finish on the boots has worn off or the application

> will be

> ineffective.

>

> * Treating the interior of your boots: When the wearer's

> perspiration

> is profuse, there may be a need to treat the interior of

> the boot. In

> such cases, an occasional very light application of

> Limmer's boot

> conditioner would prove valuable provided the person does

> not

> overapply it.

>

> * Life expectancy: With proper care and conditioning, the

> life

> expectancy of a Limmer boot can be 10-15 years and some

> owners claim

> their boots have lasted up to 25 years. At least half the

> reason for

> such success is proper conditioning. Neglect or abuse of a

> Limmer

> product will cause the same incidence of failure as would

> afflict

> anything else that has been abused. Neglect and/or abuse

> are not

> covered under the boot's warranty.