Having worked in a Graphic Arts studio or two, I would say the suggestion for Rubber Cement is spot on. BUT, there is a bit of a technique to it. Rather than just put the cement on, coat both the back of the decal and the frame with cement. Then LET IT DRY. Once dry, bond the two surfaces and apply pressure. Then use a rubber cement pickup to remove the excess (you can also use your finger, but the pickup is much better).
The other option is if you can safely remove the decal and know someone with a Xyron machine, you can have it coated with high tack adhesive. Be careful though. Peeling foil decals can cause creases and ink to crack. This is especially true with older decals.
Sean Flores San Francisco, CA
On Jul 12, 2009, at 7:07 PM, <classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org>
wrote:
> Message: 11
> Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 21:44:28 -0400
> From: <verktyg@aol.com>
> Subject: Re: [CR] Adhesive for Foil Sticker?
> To: <billkloos@landUseOregon.com>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
> Message-ID: <8CBD17297A508AD-1C8-177F@WEBMAIL-DY01.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> Here's a link that shows a time line for early Columbus tubing decals.
> The "foil" decals were printed on Mylar rather than a metallic foil.
>
> http://chainedrevolution.com/
>
> I've used plain old rubber cement that you can get at any office
> supply
> store. It's similar to the original adhesive used on the decals. Put a
> light coat on both the decal and the tube and let it dry for a few
> minutes before pressing the decal down. You can gently rub off any
> excess.
>
> Chas. Colerich
> Oakland, CA USA