Should I ask more or less do you think? would appreciate any input!
I bought this bike earlier in the spring with the intention of restoring to it perfection as a touring bike. Time constraints and an ill family member {I must relocate to SC very, very soon...} have conspired to deprive me of this joy. This 24" touring Trek was created in July of 1979 in the founders barn/work shop. Their output was still relatively small and each was painfully handcrafted as they gained their reputation. The following year their manufacturing plant was built in Wisconsin.
The 24" Frameset: The model 510 used Ishiwata 022 Chrome-poly double butted tubing throughout, (Japanese) comparable to the most expensive European tubing of the day. All this was silver brazed in the more time consuming and expensive manner to provide superior strength and flexibility. The Frame alone today is worth it's original price of $249.00 {Taken from a 1980 price list, a 1979, still has not been located! <Gee I was in 11th grade.>} The frame includes water bottle bosses, top tube cable guides and bottom bracket cable guides. The color of this amazing touring bike is slate.
The Component Package: Was known as the "Suntour special", package #5 and consisted of a 12 speed with a Suntour Ultra-6 freewheel and SR forged cotterless crank. Also includes Dia Compe 500g brakes, an Avocet I saddle, Laprade bottom-adjust seat post, Suntour VXGT dérailleur, (Sr) Sakae custom road champion handle bars and Shimano wheels.
This bike has not been ridden in 10-15 years. It was nicely stored in a dry area and protected from the weather. If the wire tires had air you could easily ride it away...all components are in great condition as is the frame. It has some slight rust spots where the paint rubbed off, but only surface stuff, slight dulled in need of a wax, all very easily remedied. Oh and the handlebar tape has dried and needs replaced.
All parts are original, This is a CLASSIC PORTLAND GEM!!! YOU RIDE THIS AND YOU WILL BE COMPLIMENTED EVERY DAY AND BE UNIQUE, WHICH IS DIFFICULT, BICYCLE WISE, AT THIS PRICE IMPOSSIBLE!!!
You can check out the original brochure here with all the specs
http://www.vintage-trek.com/
On Sun, Jul 12, 2009 at 10:19 PM, Sean Flores <seaneee175@gmail.com> wrote:
> Having worked in a Graphic Arts studio or two, I would say the suggestion
> for Rubber Cement is spot on. BUT, there is a bit of a technique to it.
> Rather than just put the cement on, coat both the back of the decal and the
> frame with cement. Then LET IT DRY. Once dry, bond the two surfaces and
> apply pressure. Then use a rubber cement pickup to remove the excess (you
> can also use your finger, but the pickup is much better).
>
> The other option is if you can safely remove the decal and know someone
> with a Xyron machine, you can have it coated with high tack adhesive. Be
> careful though. Peeling foil decals can cause creases and ink to crack. This
> is especially true with older decals.
>
> Sean Flores
> San Francisco, CA
>
>
> On Jul 12, 2009, at 7:07 PM, <classicrendezvous-request@bikelist.org>
> wrote:
>
> Message: 11
>> Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 21:44:28 -0400
>> From: <verktyg@aol.com>
>> Subject: Re: [CR] Adhesive for Foil Sticker?
>> To: <billkloos@landUseOregon.com>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
>> Message-ID: <8CBD17297A508AD-1C8-177F@WEBMAIL-DY01.sysops.aol.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>>
>> Here's a link that shows a time line for early Columbus tubing decals.
>> The "foil" decals were printed on Mylar rather than a metallic foil.
>>
>> http://chainedrevolution.com/
>>
>> I've used plain old rubber cement that you can get at any office supply
>> store. It's similar to the original adhesive used on the decals. Put a
>> light coat on both the decal and the tube and let it dry for a few
>> minutes before pressing the decal down. You can gently rub off any
>> excess.
>>
>> Chas. Colerich
>> Oakland, CA USA
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
--
John Geoghegan
Sent from Portland, OR, United States