Hi Jerry...
Have you tried the hot and cold trick? At electronics supplys you can get frees spray... Heat the freewheel first and then frees the heck out of the hub... Quickly try th remove the freewheel before the temp normalizes...
Don Williams Woodinville WA USA
On Sun, Jan 4, 2009 at 2:26 PM, Dickey <ogreer@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Jerry, face facts. If you can't break the bond loose with a pair of 14"
> cheater bars! Which is what you have pulling with both arms on a fully
> assembled wheel, then maybe you need to decide you can spare a fw body
> for a new one. I take the q-release outer nut off and flip it over so I
> get more threads holding. Take both little springs off the release and
> tighten the q-r tight with your hands. Get a good grip in your vise and
> rear back quickly once or twice. If it breaks loose, remember to losen
> the Q-R nut. If a no-go. then remove the adjusting/lock collar on the fw
> and take out the pawls, shims, and 72 ball bearings. Then the dremal
> gets a work out making a line the length of the body trying not to get
> into the alloy threads of the hub. It should then be ready to crack open
> and loosen it's grip. I would rather save a Pro Am then a ST fw any day.
> If you decide to leave it alone and change the gears. put the chain on
> 3rd or 4th position, and straddle the bike holding brakes and pedal,
> while someone uses a chain whip to break the outer cog loose.
> I know that some people are scared lifeless of the insides of a fw, now
> would be a good time to go in and look around at how 2 very small pieces
> of metal transfere your powerful legs into 30 mph.
>
> Dickey Greer
> West Monroe,La