Thank you for your kind comments, Jerry. Regarding the matter of the rotating tension bolt, I'm sure that I've discussed this with you before; in my experience, the simplest method to overcome this 'problem' is to slip a suitably-sized (10mm., I'd suggest) ring spanner over the 'tail' of the bolt and crank it slightly until it 'bites' - unless the bolt is badly seized-up, the amount of 'bite' should not even make an impression on the thread (the 'tail' of which is of no practical use, once the bolt has been assembled, anyway). I've no doubt that most of those who have a Dremel would be able to effect the slot-cutting process successfully, but, for someone as clumsy as myself, the idea of using a power tool in close proximity to a leather saddle is not a good one - and my method is surely quicker and easier in any case? Tony Colegrave. Northiam, E. Sussex, U.K.
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> Date: Sat, 10 Oct 2009 18:11:36 -0700
> From: jerrymoos@sbcglobal.net
> To: ClassicRendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR] Old Brooks Pros and Thanks for a Suggestion
> The only problem was that the nose bracket has become worn making it hard to achieve the desired tension. Unlike Ideale saddles, which have a cross piece in the front of the nose bolt, Brooks saddles usually rely on a raised "bump" in the nose bracket to stop the nose bolt rotation as the nose nut is tightened. On old saddles, the bracket "bump" can become worn down such that the bolt rotates freely, making it difficult to tension the saddle as fully as desired. However, when I mentioned this some months ago, someone, I think Chuck Schmidt, said that the standard solution to this is to cut a slot in the back end of the nose bolt with a Dremel Tool, then use a screwdriver blade ...